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Collection of Old British Vegetable Recipes

Table of Contents

A HANDBOOK OF COOKERY FOR A SMALL HOUSE BY JESSIE CONRAD [1923]

ON THE TREATMENT OF VEGETABLES With a Few Illustrative Recipes

Onions

Great care should be taken in the use of an onion. One often finds that if by accident a knife used for cutting an onion has been overlooked and it comes in contact with any article of food the flavour of the onion will spoil everything. It is also a fact that if an onion is cut before it is put into soup or sauce, the soup at once becomes cloudy, while on the other hand if it is merely peeled and put in whole, soup or sauce will remain perfectly clear. Then again for onion sauce or soup which would be made with milk, you must never put in any salt or any other ingredient till after the milk has boiled. If the onion is added before, the milk will curdle and be spoilt.

If you want to fry onions for steak, etc., have some good beef dripping already melted in a baking tin and when it is boiling put in the quantity of onions you may wish to cook cut in thin slices (cut always round the onion) then add salt and pepper to taste and bake in a steady oven, turning them once or twice with the blade of a knife.

For stuffing for either meat or poultry never put the onions in water. Cut thin as above directed (never chop) and boil in a deep frying pan in butter. By boiling I mean using a larger quantity of fat and not allowing the onions to be browned: one-fourth lb. will be quite sufficient for stuffing intended for a goose. Have ready on the board the crumb of a stale white loaf rubbed through a cheese-grater, and from four to five large sage leaves chopped fine. Mix the two together with pepper and salt to taste, turn the whole contents of the pan into the crumbs and chop finely all together. In this way the stuffing will be found moist and will not repeat after eating.

Peas & Beans

In cooking green vegetables use common soda not bi-carbonate. They should be always put into boiling water.

Fresh peas should never be shelled over night and should be kept in a covered dish after shelling till it is time for them to be cooked. Peas will become quite tough if exposed to the air for any length of time. Always put into boiling water, never add salt or soda till the peas are boiling. Scarlet runner beans should only be cut in strips in time for boiling as the edges become hard and dry if left for more than an hour. These are best kept in cold water. Dwarf beans should be treated in the same manner, but can be served with only the ends and edges removed.

Salads

All salads should be put into a bowl of cold water with a good piece of salt for not more than ten minutes before needed. A wire basket swung round vigorously will be found the best mode of drying all salads before dressing.

If lettuce is to be cooked, cos-lettuce will be found better than the cabbage variety. It will become greatly reduced in the cooking and is much improved by being lightly sauté in a frying pan in which a finely shredded spring onion has been lightly fried in a little butter. Form into small mounds with a tablespoon, and serve very hot.

Cabbage & Cauliflower

Cabbage and cauliflower should be put for awhile before cooking into a bowl of cold water with a good piece of salt, head down and the stump cut four times across.

Spinach

Spinach requires washing in several waters with a liberal quantity of salt. But the last water without salt. Have ready a large saucepan at least half full of boiling water. If, as some people direct, you put spinach into a nearly dry saucepan on the assumption that it has absorbed enough water to be cooked in, there will be an unpleasant smell. Add salt and a piece of ordinary soda about as big as a large pea. Boil with the lid off till quite tender. The spinach should then be a beautiful shade of green. Treat sorrel the same way; only it will be noticed that it will change colour directly it is put into the boiling water, becoming a greeny yellow, and is slightly acid in taste. It is usually eaten with veal, with poached eggs served on it, or as a dish by itself served with fried bread round the edge.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are always very useful and can be accommodated in many different ways. For a breakfast dish—take, for two persons, four nice sound tomatoes. Place in a large basin and scald with boiling water over them. The skin will then peel off quite easily leaving the tomatoes perfectly whole. Cut into slices and put into a cold pan with a piece of butter about the size of a tablespoon and a pinch of salt and pepper. Place on the fire and break the tomatoes in the butter as they cook. Let them fry frequently and serve under poached eggs. Another way: Take four or more tomatoes, remove the stalk but not the skin. Cut the top off, scoop the fruit out leaving a wall, have ready some chopped lean ham, chicken or other meat, add a little onion to the inside which has been taken out of the tomatoes, pepper and salt. Put into a small frying pan, and fry lightly, put the mixture into the tomato, have a little dripping melted in a baking tin, place the tomatoes into it, when hot put the top on the tomato to form a lid and bake from 15 to 20 minutes.

Mushrooms

In preparing mushrooms, peel carefully the skin, gently pull the stalk out and lay them dark side down in a little cold water with a good knob of cooking salt, this will remove any grit or insects. Have ready a flat frying pan large enough to take the mushrooms lying flat; lay each one dark side down and boil in butter gently for about seven minutes, turn them over with the blade of a knife and let them continue cooking for another ten minutes to a quarter of an hour; pepper and salt to taste. Or in another way, take a large flat frying pan; put into it about an ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of best malt vinegar, place over a quick fire and let it burn slightly. That is to say it is ready when it smokes. Lay the mushrooms as before directed, proceed in the same way, adding only a little finely chopped onion in the centre of each mushroom, place dark side up either on toast buttered or on a flat dish, pour over the butter from the pan and serve very hot. Sprinkle thinly with chopped onion after the mushrooms are in the dish.

Mushroom rissoles make an excellent breakfast dish and may be served in little stone marmites instead of pastry. Carefully wash mushrooms as directed above. Take a little strong beef gravy (not bovril or other meat essence) cut the mushrooms into lengths, each one into four or five, put them into a small saucepan with pepper and salt and enough gravy to cover, stew for an hour. Thicken with a little flour mixed smoothly with water. This can be kept over night and warmed in the morning.

Turnips

Turnips make a very good dish with roast pork, treated as follows: Carefully peel ten or twelve nice firm turnips, reject the woolly as they are not worth cooking (except for flavouring); cut into slices, then into lengths, then into small squares (the appearance of a dish is as important as the taste); boil gently for about half an hour or until tender, strain and serve very hot with a little melted butter poured over them, pepper and salt to taste.

Carrots

Carrots, if very young, must on no account be peeled, but only lightly scraped and then cooked in a covered saucepan till tender. Serve very hot with a little melted butter and a little finely chopped parsley sprinkled over them. Care should be taken not to boil too long as these tender young vegetables are apt to become soft and tasteless. When the carrots are older and bigger they should be carefully peeled and cut in rings about one-eighth of an inch thick. There is also this pretty and appetising way to serve carrots. Cook them as above directed and have ready the following in a lined saucepan (double saucepan): a half pint of boiling milk with salt to taste, one and a half level tablespoonfuls of household flour mixed smoothly in a basin with a half ounce of butter. Should the butter be hard and difficult to mix smooth, place the basin on the stove till the butter is soft enough to handle with a firm spoon. When mixed pour the boiling milk straight into the flour and butter stirring all the time, and always the same way; put back into the double saucepan and stir till it boils, add the cooked carrot and serve very hot as an additional vegetable or as a separate dish. Should the sauce be sticky or too thick judgment which will come with experience will quickly show the error to be a little too much flour or careless mixing. This sauce is also useful to compose a lunch dish with, by adding to it some chopped roast chicken and a thin slice of onion instead of carrots. Serve in a rather deep dish with croutons of fried bread or dry toast round the edge. A tin of prawns can be used instead of chicken in which case a small teaspoonful of anchovy sauce may be added at the last, instead of salt, as the prawns may be already a little salt.

Potatoes

Potatoes are to my mind one of the most ill-used vegetables we have. They require simple care to make them a useful and welcome addition to at least two meals in the day. Too often I have found the greatest carelessness in the cooking of a simple potato.

Often at an English inn potatoes are impossible, even more so than other vegetables, and yet we English people have the best potatoes in the world! It is indeed a fact that in the case of the poor potato, God sends the food, and the devil the cooks!

One common error is to peel the potatoes hours before they are to be cooked and to leave them in water; another to peel them (because the weather is cold) in quite hot water, or, worse still, then shut them down in a saucepan on the side of the stove ever so long before they are required. In this way the potato is spoilt before it has even boiled.

It is quite possible to use up even cold potatoes in an appetising manner. None need ever be wasted if the following hints are taken and the sound advice of many years’ experience is followed. For new potatoes pick out those as much of a size as possible, carefully scrape them, remove any eyes, rinse in clear cold water and put into enough boiling water to cover well; add a sprig of mint (in one piece) and a piece of salt put in a saucepan preferably not iron and boil gently till tender which can easily be found by trying them with a fork. When cooked, strain, remove the mint, put into the saucepan a knob of butter while the potatoes are there and serve as quickly as possible with a little finely chopped parsley on them.

The object of the butter is not only to improve the taste and appearance but it also helps to prevent the sort of preserved taste one so often gets in hotel cooking. As the potatoes get older it is better to put them to boil into cold water, and directly they are too old to scrape freely, no mint is necessary or advisable. Some potatoes are best strained before they are quite cooked and then shut down in the saucepan to finish in their steam. If the potatoes are not to be used at once (say when a meal is delayed longer than expected for some reason), it is a good idea either to rice them in a ricer or to mash them. In that way they will not have an unpleasant taste and can be kept hot for some time and still be quite palatable.

Often one has some cold potatoes left say from lunch, cut them into slices, put about ½ an oz. of butter into a frying pan and when melted and hot lay each slice of potato flat in the hot butter, fry quickly over a brisk fire till they attain a golden-brown colour. Care must be taken that they do not burn.

Cold potatoes can also be used for hot cakes as follows: Take the remains of any boiled potatoes, break them into a bowl, take a breakfast cup and a half of flour (for this quantity of flour about the value of eight potatoes would be necessary) rub them smoothly into the flour, add two ounces of butter, salt, a little baking-powder (unless self-raising flour is used) mix as for pastry with a little milk (sour will do) and if possible an egg beaten into it, form into small cakes and bake on larded paper in a quick oven, serve hot with sugar and butter to be spread on them.

For fried potatoes care should be taken to follow these directions carefully: Peel your potatoes and cut them into slices about one-half an inch thick, then into strips, each slice let us say into four, let them lay in a bowl of cold water till wanted for frying. Take a large deep frying pan in which you have melted one-fourth pound of best tub lard, place over a quick fire taking care not to let it burn, and when it is ready (which is easily found out by dropping one piece of potato into the fat—it should sizzle at once), take the potatoes out of the water by hand and drop straight into the boiling lard. Turn carefully from time to time with a knife blade. Remove them with a slice into a vegetable dish in which there is a strainer (stone for preference), and place in the oven with an open door till required; but serve as soon as possible. Never put the cover on the dish or allow the oven door to be shut as the potatoes would not then keep quite crisp. Never add salt till ready in the dish, when a little should be sprinkled over the potatoes.

For straw potatoes proceed in the same way; only these will require less time for cooking and will need to be cut very much thinner and smaller.

For soufflé potatoes cut them into thin slices and dry them on a clean cloth. Lay them in a little milk for a moment and then put them into the boiling fat straight out of the milk. If these directions are carefully followed there should be a crisp brown bubble on each side of the slice of the potato. These also must not be covered or have the oven door closed on them.

There is also another simple way of treating an old potato. Often toward the end of the year when one’s potatoes run large and we are anxious to give a dish a dainty appearance we find that the large potato served whole looks clumsy. If the potatoes are carefully peeled and any unsightly blemishes are removed such as the eye or as so often happens there are bluey patches due to a bruise perhaps on the potatoes otherwise perfectly sound, the following hint may be found both useful and economical. Take a stout teaspoon and scoop spoonfuls from the outside of a big potato. (The broken remains can be used in soup say either beef or mutton stock. Recipe for this with soups.) When you have sufficient potatoes ready you can either fry in dripping (in which case do not attempt to make them crisp) or boil them very gently, or bake them under a joint, etc. They will be best baked or fried. They can then be served laid round a dish of fish (fried or boiled) or round a dish of roast meat previously carved and laid down the centre of a dish or with kidneys and bacon or with liver and bacon.

Celery

Celery used as a vegetable will be found very palatable cooked in the following manner. Take two or three heads of celery, wash carefully in fresh cold water and a little salt, have ready any little beef, veal, or chicken stock, bring this to a boil and cook the celery in it. From 30 to 40 minutes should be long enough to render the celery soft. Serve in a vegetable dish with the gravy poured over it, sufficient only to just cover, having previously stirred a teaspoonful of cornflour mixed with cold water into it.

Beetroot


Beet-root may be prepared either cold to serve with cold beef or as a hot vegetable dish best served with roast mutton.
For cold, have four or five round small beet-roots washed, handling them carefully and taking the greatest care not to break off any tender shoots, and avoiding cutting the leaf-end too near the top of the beet-root. Have a saucepan large enough to take the beet-root without breaking it. Boil gently with a good piece of salt from 40 minutes to an hour, or even a little longer, according to the size. Prick with a carving fork to see if quite tender, then lay them on a strainer and when cool enough to hold in the fingers remove the peel and cut into thin rings. Lay them in a dish of vinegar (a deep glass dish is best), dust over two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, and allow to get thoroughly cold before serving. The object of the sugar in the vinegar is to draw the colour out of the beet-root and to remove the sourness. More or less sugar may be used according to individual taste but the proportion given is generally right.

The beet-root already boiled may be used for the following dish:

Cut into a little thicker slices, then into strips, then into little squares. Have ready in a deep enamel frying pan a quantity of melted butter, put the diced beet-root into it with a pinch of salt and a little cream (or, if not available, a little milk) and bring the mixture to a boil, taking care not to break the vegetable when stirring with a knife blade. Mix a teaspoonful of cornflour with a little milk, stir into the beet-root while on the stove, serve round the dish of sliced mutton or separately very hot.

Leeks

Leeks can often be made to take the place of onions and are a very useful vegetable cooked in either of the following ways. Take from twelve to twenty leeks, wash well in cold water, being careful to remove all grit. It will be found necessary nearly always to split them, to be sure that they are quite clean. Stew them in beef stock till quite tender. (This vegetable does not require any soda in the cooking and is best cooked in stock.) Strain and serve when quite tender. Another way is to cut each leek into four, lengthwise, and bake in dripping, as directed to do with the onion.

White Cabbage

The Drumhead or white cabbage has no appearance if cooked only as a cabbage, but a useful dish may be made in the following manner. Take a large cabbage, remove the white stiff stalk running down the leaf with a sharp knife. Put the leaves into a large saucepan of boiling water, cook as for ordinary cabbage except that the leaves will all be separate. When tender spread on a large dish to cool. Prepare some finely minced meat, beef, ham, veal or mutton, chicken or lamb, about half a teacup of freshly boiled rice salted to taste. (The value of two tablespoonfuls of rice will be enough to make half a teacup.) The rice to have been boiled in water and not too soft. Mix with the minced meat and having spread each cabbage leaf open, fill with the mixture, leaving enough of the leaf clear to roll round the meat. Have a deep frying pan on the fire half full of either beef or mutton stock, bring to a boil and place each stuffed leaf in the stock and cook for ten minutes; remove with a slice on to a deep dish and serve at once very hot.

Green Vegetables – Cooking Advice

Always boil without a lid on.

Always put straight into boiling water.

Never add salt or soda till the vegetables are in the water.

Never have green vegetables lying in cold water more than half an hour before they are to be cooked.

Cabbage, savoy, cauliflower should be steeped for ten minutes in a pan of cold water with a good tablespoonful of salt. Time to boil twenty-five to thirty minutes.

Potatoes must lie in cold water without salt.

Onions should never lie in water or be wet before being used.

Turnips, carrots, and parsnips should be washed but never allowed to lie in cold water.

Celery should be treated like cabbage.

Spinach, on the contrary, requires to be washed in seven different lots of cold water and only the last lot without salt.

Fresh beans or peas should never pass through any cold water.

Dry Vegetables

Haricot beans should be put to soak for at least twelve hours in cold water—pint of beans to three pints of cold water. No salt.

Dry peas (not split) the same.

Asparagus

This delightful vegetable is a welcome and useful addition to either a lunch or dinner and can be served either hot or cold. If cold, then with a nice mayonnaise sauce or with oil and vinegar. If hot, then as follows: Prepare the asparagus, carefully cutting each stick slanting thus removing about an inch from each. (These short ends can be washed and put into stock to flavour it for asparagus soup.

A few of the tops being added for the sake of appearance.) Boil in plenty of water till tender, strain carefully and serve with melted butter in which a few dry brown breadcrumbs have been added, or quite clear butter as desired.

If any asparagus is left over from the meal it should be used in an omelette.

Indian Corn

Take the corn and after cutting the stump end close to the green leaf, put into a saucepan of boiling water sufficient to cover it and boil gently with a good piece of salt for four hours. When cooked, pare off the green leaves and serve on a clean serviette with melted butter in a sauce boat.

Salsify

Carefully wash and remove shoots from the salsify. Place it in boiling stock and boil till tender.

Serve very hot in a vegetable dish either with a white sauce or with a little melted butter over it in two lots as they must not be crowded.

Green Peas

Put into a saucepan of boiling water half a vegetable dish of green peas. Add two lumps of loaf sugar, a small sprig of mint, a pinch of soda, and a flat teaspoonful of salt.

Young peas should cook from twenty to thirty minutes over a clear fire with the saucepan lid off.

Strain through a cullender and when dished sprinkle with a good dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; add a piece of butter about the size of a walnut and turn over with a spoon several times before serving.

Bottled peas treated in this manner very closely resemble fresh peas. They must be washed in three waters before cooking.

Scarlet Runner and Broad Beans

Have four pounds of beans, trim them all round with a knife to remove all the string and cut them lengthwise into thin slices. Do not put them into cold water. Have ready the saucepan three parts full of boiling water. Put in the beans with a little salt and a tiny piece of soda.

Boil for twenty minutes if the beans are young and a little longer if they are not quite fresh. Strain into a cullender then into a vegetable dish.

Broad beans should be treated in the same way after shucking them. Add a piece of butter when dished and sprinkle over with a little chopped parsley.

Never allow vegetables of any kind to be prepared over night. It will be found that peas or beans will be hard, cabbage or other greens offensive, and potatoes become flabby.

Cauliflower

Take a young cauliflower with a firm head. Take off the thick outside leaves and cut a cross on the bottom of the stump. Stand it in boiling water with the flower uppermost allowing the water to come right over it. Add some salt and a tiny bit of soda.

Boil until tender (from fifteen to twenty minutes). Dish without breaking, upright in the dish.

Pour half a teacupful of clarified butter over the cauliflower and dust a few rolled breadcrumbs, which have been browned in the oven, over the top.

Boiled Onions and White Sauce

Cut eight Spanish onions into rings. Put them into a saucepan three parts full of boiling water with a dessertspoonful of salt and boil for one hour. Strain into a cullender.

Take two large tablespoonfuls of flour and mix smoothly with one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter. Add boiling milk to the paste, about half a pint, return it to the saucepan and stir till it boils; then turn the onions into the sauce and serve very hot.

Mushroom Rissoles

Cut half a pound of fresh mushrooms into very small pieces. Put into a small enamelled saucepan with one slice of Spanish onion chopped very fine, a pinch of salt and a little pepper. Add a little meat juice and a teacup of water and stew gently until the mushrooms have absorbed all the moisture.

Turn out into a plate and allow to cool. Prepare some light paste, cut out with a teacup into rounds, brush the rims of each round with a little milk. Put a small teaspoonful of the mushrooms into each and fold over into lozenge shape. Take the shelf out of the oven while it is hot and lay upon it a sheet of paper (white) which has been previously buttered.

As soon as the butter has melted lay the rissoles on and bake in quick oven from fifteen to twenty minutes. To be eaten hot.

Stuffed Tomatoes

Cut a thin slice off eight large tomatoes. Remove part of the inside with a teaspoon. Put half an ounce of fresh butter into a frying pan (must be fresh butter). Take one large rasher of bacon, fat and lean, and half a Spanish onion; chop very fine, add a pinch of mixed herbs, pepper and salt, and the inside of the tomatoes.

Make the butter hot in the pan and place the tomatoes (the cut side downwards) in it and stand on the stove with the top on. Leave for one minute and a half. Turn them and place the stuffing in the corner of the pan. Cook both together in this way for ten minutes more taking care not to let burn.

Take out the tomatoes with a slice and place on a fairly deep meat dish; fill them with the stuffing, having carefully taken it up with the slice so as to avoid grease. Pour over all about half a small teacupful of meat juice.

Bubble and Squeak

Chop lightly with a knife in a dish any cold greens and potatoes you may have left. Melt in an enamelled frying pan one ounce more or less of fresh butter. Turn the vegetables into it. While cooking use a large dinner fork to press the vegetables into a smooth paste, turning it over and over with the fork all the time to prevent it sticking to the pan.

Vegetables so treated should work into a perfectly smooth, stiff paste and leave the pan as clean as when they went into it. Add a little pepper and salt.

Be careful to remove all stumps of cabbage before using.

To Use up Cold Vegetables

Cold boiled French beans, cold carrots, cabbage, and a little chopped onion may be put into an enamelled frying pan in which one and a half ounces of fresh butter has been melted. Fry the vegetables very lightly, not making them brown. Turn into a deep dish and pour a little meat gravy over them. This may be served as a dish by itself or with cold meat.

Spinach as a Separate Dish

Wash through several waters, into which a little salt has been added, four pounds of fresh spinach after having removed all stalks. The last water should be without salt. The spinach would have absorbed enough moisture to cook it in but nevertheless have ready a saucepan half full of boiling water and put the spinach into it. This will prevent a most disagreeable smell being emitted while the spinach is cooking.

Boil for twenty minutes, keeping the spinach pressed down with a fork. It should then be quite tender; if it is not so, boil for five minutes longer. Strain through a cullender, pressing hard with a plate or wooden vegetable press to get all the water out; put into a bowl and beat well with a fork and then work it into another bowl through a hair sieve using a large wooden spoon.

Then work in half a gill of cream, a small piece of butter and a little milk. The spinach ought then to have the consistency of thick cream.

Put it into a dish and serve with croutons of lightly fried French roll or garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters.

Victorian Vegetable Recipes from New Vegetarian Dishes by Mrs Bowdich [1892]

Stewed Vegetable Marrow.

  • 1 middling-sized vegetable marrow.
  • 1 pint water.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • ½ ounce flour.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.

Peel and slice the marrow and remove the seeds; place these in a saucepan with the water and salt, and simmer for a quarter of an hour. Dissolve half an ounce of butter in a stewpan, put in the slices of marrow, and strain the liquor from the seeds over them; stew gently for half or one hour, according to the age of the marrow. When quite done, lift the pieces out carefully. Mix the other half ounce butter and flour into a paste, thicken the gravy with this, pour it over the marrow, and serve. A sprig of mint may be boiled with the seeds if liked.

Note.—This method of boiling vegetable marrows will be found greatly superior to that generally adopted, as in this case there is no waste nor loss of flavour.

Brussels Sprouts Sausages.

  • 4 ounces cooked sprouts.
  • 2 ounces mashed potatoes.
  • 2 ounces bread crumbs.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • 1 teaspoon sage.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.
  • ½ teaspoon pepper.
  • 1 egg and bread crumbs.

Mix the vegetables, bread crumbs and flavouring well together, moisten with half the egg, form into sausages, roll in the other half of egg and bread crumbs, and fry in the one ounce of butter or boiling oil.

Spinach with Peas and Tomatoes.

  • 2 pounds spinach.
  • ½ pound shelled green peas.
  • 1 onion.
  • ½ pint tomato juice.
  • A little pepper.
  • 3 teaspoons salt.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • ½ ounce flour.
  • A little water.

Place the peas, the onion sliced, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a pint of water in a stewpan, and boil with the lid off until the peas are tender. Have ready the tomato juice thickened with half ounce each of flour and butter, add to the peas and stir well. In the meantime, cook the spinach (which must have been well washed and picked) in a little water and the remainder of the salt. When tender, strain through a colander, well press out the water, turn the spinach on to a chopping-board, chop very fine, then place it into a stewpan containing half an ounce of butter and stir over a brisk fire for a few minutes, adding pepper to taste. Turn the spinach on to a hot dish, pour over the peas, and serve with sippets of toast.

Tomatoes in Batter.

(Plain.)

  • 4 fresh tomatoes.
  • 2 eggs.
  • 2 teaspoons flour.
  • ½ pint milk.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • 1 teaspoon salt.
  • ½ teaspoon pepper.

Scald and peel the tomatoes, and cut them in half (as one would split open a tea cake), and lay them cut side upwards in a baking tin which has been well greased with half an ounce of butter, sprinkle over them the pepper and salt, and place a small knob of butter on each half, pour in the batter, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour.

Turnips with Poached Eggs.

  • 1 bunch turnips.
  • 2 quarts water.
  • 1 tablespoon salt.
  • 2 teaspoons chopped watercress.
  • Some browned breadcrumbs.
  • 4 eggs.
  • 1½ ounces butter.
  • 1 teaspoon white pepper.

Peel and quarter the turnips, and boil them in the salt and water until tender; strain and press the water well out, return them to the saucepan (which should be first rinsed and wiped), add butter, and beat them well with a strong fork over a gentle heat; add pepper, then turn into a flat pie dish, but do not quite fill it. Break four eggs on the top, sprinkle over them the watercress and a little salt, also the bread crumbs and half ounce butter broken in small pieces, and bake until the eggs are set, but not hard.

Note.—An ornamental pie dish should be used, as it must go to table.

Vegetable Marrow with Potato Balls.

  • 1 vegetable marrow.
  • 10 or 12 floury potatoes.
  • 1 egg.
  • 1½ ounces butter.
  • Pepper and salt.

Peel the potatoes, boil until tender, strain, and dry them well. Mash with a large fork, add pepper and salt to taste, half an ounce of butter and the yolk of egg, beat the white to a stiff froth and add last. Form the potatoes into nice-shaped balls about the size of a small orange, and place them in a baking tin in which one ounce of butter has been dissolved, brush them over with a little of the butter, and brown in the oven. In the meantime, boil the vegetable marrow whole until tender (from half to three-quarters of an hour), when done, peel it, cut it into slices about one and a half inches thick, remove the seeds, lay the pieces in a dish, and place in the oven for a few minutes to dry off; then sprinkle a little pepper and salt over, and place a ball of potato in the centre of each piece of marrow. Pour tomato or other sauce over, and serve.

Vegetable Marrow Rings with Tomato Batter.

  • 1 medium-sized vegetable marrow.
  • 8 ounces tomato pulp.
  • 1 egg.
  • 1 tablespoon flour.
  • 2 ounces butter.
  • 1 gill milk. [125 millilitres or half a cup]
  • A little pepper and salt.

Peel the vegetable marrow, cut it into even rings about three-quarters of an inch thick, and remove the seeds neatly (this is best done by the aid of a pastry cutter). Dissolve the butter in a baking tin, place the rings in, sprinkle a little salt on them, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour, then turn them over and bake another half hour. Meanwhile prepare the batter as follows:—take half a pound of cooked tomato pulp, as dry as possible, and chop it well; add pepper and salt if not already seasoned. Make a batter with the egg, flour and milk, add the tomato pulp, and stir all well together. When the rings of marrow have been cooking one hour, remove from the oven, fill up the centres with the batter, replace in the oven, and bake another half hour.

Tomato sauce should be served with this dish, which can be specially recommended. [see recipe below]

Tomato Sauce. [for recipe above]

  • ½ pint tomato juice.
  • 1 small onion.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.
  • 6 peppercorns.
  • 1 ounce flour.
  • 1 ounce butter.

Slice the onion, and boil it in the tomato juice with the peppercorns and salt for one hour; strain. Mix the flour and butter on a plate with a knife; when thoroughly incorporated, place in the tomato juice and stir until it boils.

Vegetable Marrow Stuffed.

  • 1 medium-sized vegetable marrow.
  • 4 ounces semolina.
  • 1 pint water.
  • 2 eggs.
  • 1 onion.
  • 1 teaspoon sweet herbs.
  • 1 teaspoon salt.
  • 1 teaspoon pepper.
  • 2 ounces butter.

After washing the marrow, cut off one end and scoop out all the seeds. Place in a saucepan the butter, semolina, onion chopped fine, sweet herbs, salt, pepper, and water; boil for fifteen minutes, then stand on one side to cool slightly; add the eggs beaten up, stuff the marrow with the mixture, and tie on the end. Grease a baking dish or tin with the remainder of the butter, and place in it the marrow. Bake for two hours, or until quite tender, basting frequently and turning it occasionally.

Note.—A suitable sauce for this dish may be made by boiling the seeds in half a pint of water with a little salt, then strain and thicken with half ounce each of flour and butter. A sprig of mint may be used for flavouring. After dishing up the marrow, turn the sauce into the tin to brown, and pour through a strainer over the marrow.

Vegetable Marrow Stuffed. Another way.

  • 1 medium-sized vegetable marrow.
  • 3 ounces bread crumbs.
  • 2 onions.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.
  • ¼ teaspoon pepper.
  • A little sage.

Slice and fry the onions in the butter until they are a nice brown, then chop them very fine, mix with the other ingredients, and proceed as already described in the vegetable marrow stuffed recipe above this one.

Cauliflower Soufflé.

  • 3 eggs.
  • 8 ounces cooked cauliflower.
  • ½ ounce butter for pie dish.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.

Beat the eggs, the yolks and whites separately, the latter to a stiff froth. Chop the cauliflower very fine, add salt, mix all together thoroughly, turn into a well greased flat pie dish, and bake in a quick oven for about twenty minutes. When done, remove from pie dish, and serve very quickly.

Cauliflower and Potato Soufflé.

  • 3 ounces mashed potatoes.
  • 3 ounces of the white part of cauliflower.
  • ½ ounce butter.
  • 3 eggs.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.
  • ½ teaspoon pepper.
  • ½ ounce butter.

Beat the eggs well, whites and yolks separately, then add the potatoes, the cauliflower chopped very fine, and the seasonings. Stir all well together, then fill small patty pans (which have been well greased), and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. A small knob of butter placed on the top will help to brown them, and any flavouring, such as chopped onion, parsley, or herbs, may be added if liked.

Fresh Green Pea Soufflé.

  • ½ pint young peas shelled.
  • 2 eggs.
  • ¼ teaspoon salt.
  • ½ pint water.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • A sprig of mint.

Boil the peas in the water with half an ounce of butter, mint, and salt for about half an hour, leaving the saucepan uncovered; when done, remove the mint, and stand the saucepan on one side to cool a little. Well grease a pie dish with the remainder of the butter, stir the yolks of eggs into the peas, beat the whites to a stiff froth, mix altogether, pour into the dish, and bake for about twenty minutes.

Curried Beetroot and Cucumber.

  • 1 cucumber.
  • 1 beetroot.
  • 2 shalots.
  • ½ pint water.
  • 1 teaspoon curry powder.
  • 2 tablespoons cooked haricot beans.
  • 2 ounces butter.
  • 1 teaspoon flour.
  • 1 teaspoon salt.
  • ½ teaspoon pepper.

Slice the cucumber, beetroot and shalots, and fry for ten minutes in the butter; add pepper, salt, curry powder and flour, mix well and add water. Simmer for half an hour, stirring frequently.

Curried Turnips.

  • Turnips.
  • Butter.
  • Curry sauce.
  • Boiled rice

Peel and slice the turnips, and stamp or trim the slices so as to have them as even as possible; fry them a golden brown in a little butter, lay in a hot dish, pour over them the sauce (hot), make a border of the rice, and serve.

Note.—The rice may be omitted.

Artichokes with Sauce Royale.

  • 3 pounds artichokes.
  • ½ pint water.
  • ¾ teaspoon salt.
  • 1 pint sauce [see recipe below]

Wash and peel the artichokes, and boil for twenty minutes in the salt and water. Should any of the water then remain, leave lid off for a few minutes to allow it to evaporate. Turn the artichokes into a hot vegetable dish and pour over them the sauce, which must have been thoroughly heated previously.

Sauce Royale. [for recipe above]

  • 1 turnip.
  • 1 carrot.
  • 1 onion.
  • 1 tomato.
  • ½ ounce flour.
  • 2 ounces butter.
  • 1 pint water.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.

Prepare the vegetables, slice them, and fry in an ounce of butter for five minutes; add water and salt, and simmer gently for one and a half hours. Strain and thicken with one ounce of butter and the flour.

Fried Beetroot.

(A Breakfast Dish.)

  • 1 medium-sized beet.
  • 2 ounces butter for frying.
  • 1 teaspoon salt.
  • ½ teaspoon pepper.
  • 2 teaspoons flour.
  • 2 tablespoons vinegar.
  • 1 tablespoon water.

Peel the beetroot, and cut into slices about a quarter of an inch thick. Dissolve the butter in a frying pan, place in the beetroot and fry for twenty minutes, sprinkling each slice on both sides with the pepper and salt. When done, arrange the slices on a hot dish. Reset the frying pan on the fire, stir in the flour, thoroughly mixing it with the butter, and fry for a couple of minutes, stirring all the time, then pour in the water and vinegar, stir until quite smooth; pour over the beetroot and serve quickly.

Brussels Sprouts.

  • Sprouts.
  • Salted water.

Clean the sprouts very thoroughly, removing all the decayed and outside leaves, and when perfectly free from dirt and insects, place them in plenty of fast-boiling salted water, and boil for about twenty minutes, or until quite tender but not broken. Keep the lid off all the time they are cooking, remove the scum as it rises, and be sure and use no soda. When they are tender, have ready a colander with a cloth laid in it, lift the sprouts out with an egg slice, and lay them carefully on the cloth to drain, place about a dozen of the best shaped ones on a hot plate or dish, slide the remainder gently off the cloth on to a hot drainer in a vegetable dish, and arrange the reserved ones on the top.

Sprouts are often spoiled in the dishing up, but no vegetable looks and tastes nicer if properly cooked and served.

French Beans.

  • 1 pint tomato juice.
  • 1 shalot.
  • 1 pound cooked French beans.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.
  • A little pepper.
  • Thickening of flour and butter.

Slice the shalot, and stew it in the tomato juice for about half an hour. Strain, add pepper and salt, and thicken the juice with the flour and butter. Lay the French beans in, and thoroughly re-heat.

Note.—Tinned beans may be used, when fresh ones are not obtainable.

A nice way of serving Greens.

  • 2 pounds greens.
  • Salted water.
  • 1 ounce butter.

Boil the greens (Scotch kale, broccoli tops, etc.) in the usual way. When quite tender, strain and press well, place on a board and chop very finely; dissolve the butter in a stewpan, place in the greens, add a little pepper and more salt if required, and stir briskly over the fire for two or three minutes. Serve in a hot vegetable dish.

Tasty Greens.

  • 2 eggs.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • ½ pound cooked greens of any kind.
  • Salt and pepper to taste.

Dissolve the butter in a small stewpan, beat up the eggs, add them to the butter, and stir over the fire until the sauce thickens, but on no account allow it to boil; add the greens, which should be finely chopped, also seasoning if required, and continue stirring over a gentle heat for two or three minutes.

Mushrooms Baked.

  • 1 dozen mushrooms.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • 2 tablespoonsful water.
  • Pepper and salt.

Peel the mushrooms, removing part of the stalks, and lay them (stalks upwards) in a flat baking tin or dish containing the water; place a small piece of the butter in the centre of each mushroom, pepper and salt them to taste; cover them, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty or thirty minutes. Serve very hot.

Note.—Great care must be taken that the mushrooms are quite free from insects before cooking.

Green Peas Boiled.

  • 1 pint shelled peas.
  • 1 pint water.
  • A sprig of mint.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • ¼ teaspoon salt.

Wash the peas, and place them in a stewpan with the other ingredients, simmer with the lid off until they are quite tender, remove the mint and serve. The small quantity of liquor which remains will be found useful for flavouring sauces, stews, etc.

Note.—This way of cooking peas is greatly superior to that of putting them into a large quantity of water, as there is no waste and the entire flavour and nutriment of the vegetable are retained.

Salsify.

  • 1 dozen roots of salsify.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • ½ ounce flour.
  • 1 slice of lemon.
  • ½ pint water.
  • 1 gill of milk.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.

Scrape the salsify, and throw it into cold water, cut into pieces about two inches long, and place in an enamelled stewpan with the water, milk, lemon, salt, and half an ounce of butter. Boil one hour or until quite tender, remove the lemon, lift out the salsify and place in a warm vegetable dish, thicken the liquor with the other half ounce of butter and the flour, pour over the salsify and serve.

Stewed Tomatoes.

  • 1 dozen tomatoes.
  • 1½ ounces butter.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.
  • ¼ teaspoon pepper.

Scald the tomatoes by pouring boiling water over them, then place in cold water for half a minute. Remove the skins, which will now come off quite easily, slice the tomatoes into about four pieces with a very sharp knife. Have ready a stewpan in which the butter has been dissolved, place the tomatoes in it, add the seasoning, and stew gently for about twenty minutes, stirring frequently.

Note.—When strained, this constitutes a very choice sauce, and it may be slightly thickened.

Asparagus Sauce.

  • 20 heads of asparagus.
  • ½ pint white sauce.
  • Pepper and salt to taste.
  • Spinach colouring.

Cut away the white portion of the asparagus, and tie the green into a bundle; boil in salted water for about thirty minutes or until tender, but not broken; then lift out, and place on a board and cut off the tips, rub the remainder through a hair sieve into the white sauce; then stir in the tips, also a few drops of spinach colouring, and it is ready for use.

Note.—When rubbing the asparagus through the sieve, it will be found that it adheres to the outer side, whence it must be removed with a spoon.

Vegetable Sauce.

  • 1 carrot.
  • 1 onion.
  • 1 turnip.
  • A little celery.
  • 1 ounce flour.
  • 1 ounce butter.
  • 1½ pints water.
  • ½ teaspoon salt.
  • { 1 dozen peppercorns.
  •  1 inch stick of cinnamon.
  •  1 teaspoon mixed herbs.

Prepare the vegetables, cut them up in small pieces, place in a saucepan with the water, salt and flavourings, simmer for one hour; strain, replace in the saucepan, which should have been rinsed, and thicken with flour and butter, or if a little cold boiled rice is handy it may be substituted for the flour, and should be added with one ounce of butter to the sauce five minutes before it is strained. A teaspoonful of lemon juice added the last thing will give additional piquancy to the sauce.

Note.—This quantity will make about three-quarters of a pint of sauce.

MODERN COOKERY FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES (New Edition) by ELIZA ACTON [1882]

TO BOIL SEA-KALE.

Wash, trim, and tie the kale in bunches, and throw it into plenty of boiling water with some salt in it. When it is perfectly tender, lift it out, drain it well from the water, and send it to table with good melted butter. When fashion is not particularly regarded we would recommend its being served upon a toast like asparagus. About twenty minutes will boil it, rather less for persons who like it crisp.

18 to 20 minutes.

SEA-KALE STEWED IN GRAVY.

(ENTREMETS – 2nd course)

Boil the kale for ten minutes in salt and water; drain it well, and put it into a saucepan with as much good brown gravy as will nearly cover it; stew it gently for ten minutes or until it is tender, and send it to table in the gravy very hot. Another excellent mode of serving this vegetable is, to boil it in salt and water, and to pour over it plenty of rich white sauce after it is dished.

SPINACH A L’ANGLAISE. (Or, English fashion.)

(ENTREMETS.)

Boil the spinach as already directed, and after it has been well squeezed and chopped, stir it over a moderate fire until it is very dry; moisten it with as much thick rich gravy as will flavour it well, and turn and stew it quite fast until it is again very dry; then press it into a hot mould of handsome form, turn it into a dish and serve it quickly. Two or three ounces of fresh butter may be laid into the saucepan with the spinach at first, as a substitute for the gravy. When a perforated tin shape, ordinarily used for moulding spinach, is not at hand, one of earthenware, slightly buttered, will serve nearly as well.

SPINACH. (Common English mode.)

Boil the spinach very green in plenty of water, drain, and then press the moisture from it between two trenchers; chop it small, put it into a clean saucepan, with a slice of fresh butter, and stir the whole until well mixed and very hot. Smooth it in a dish, mark it in dice, and send it quickly to table.

ANOTHER COMMON ENGLISH RECEIPT FOR SPINACH.

Take it leaf by leaf from the stalks, and be very careful to clear it from any weeds that may be amongst it, and to free it by copious and repeated washings from every particle of sand, or earth. Put it into a large well-tinned stewpan or saucepan, with the water only which hangs about it; throw in a small spoonful of salt, and keep it constantly pressed down with a wooden spoon, and turned often for about a quarter of an hour, or until it is perfectly tender. Drain off the superfluous moisture, chop the spinach quickly on a hot trencher; dish and serve it immediately. Fried sippets of bread should always be served round this vegetable, unless it be prepared for an invalid.

TO DRESS DANDELIONS LIKE SPINACH, OR AS A SALAD.

(Very wholesome.)

This common weed of the fields and highways is an excellent vegetable, the young leaves forming an admirable adjunct to a salad, and much resembling endive when boiled and prepared in the same way, or in any of the modes directed for spinach. The slight bitterness of its flavour is to many persons very agreeable; and it is often served at well-appointed tables. It has also, we believe, the advantage of possessing valuable medicinal qualities. Take the roots before the blossom is at all advanced, if they can readily be found in that state; if not, pluck off and use the young leaves only. Wash them as clean as possible, and boil them tender in a large quantity of water salted as for sprouts or spinach. Drain them well, press them dry with a wooden spoon, and serve them quite plain with melted butter in a tureen; or, squeeze, chop, and heat them afresh, with a seasoning of salt and pepper, a morsel of butter rolled in flour, and a spoonful or two of gravy or cream.

A very large portion of the leaves will be required for a dish, as they shrink exceedingly in the cooking. For a salad, take them very young and serve them entire, or break them quite small with the fingers; then wash and drain them. Dress them with oil and vinegar, or with any other sauce which may be preferred with them.

BOILED TURNIP-RADISHES.

These should be freshly drawn, young and white. Wash and trim them neatly, leaving on two or three of the small inner leaves of the top. Boil them in plenty of salted water from twenty to thirty minutes, and as soon as they are tender send them to table well drained, with melted butter or white sauce. Common radishes when young, tied in bunches, and boiled from eighteen to twenty-five minutes, then served on a toast like asparagus, are very good.

BOILED LEEKS.

Trim off the coarser leaves from some young leeks, cut them into equal lengths, tie them into small bunches, and boil them in plenty of water which has been previously salted and skimmed; serve them on a toast, and send melted butter to table with them.

20 to 25 minutes.

STEWED LETTUCES.

Strip off the outer leaves, and cut away the stalks; wash the lettuces with exceeding nicety, and throw them into water salted as for all green vegetables. When they are quite tender, which will be in from twenty to thirty minutes, according to their age, lift them out and press the water thoroughly from them; chop them a little, and heat them in a clean saucepan with a seasoning of pepper and salt, and a small slice of butter; then dredge in a little flour and stir them well; add next a small cup of broth or gravy, boil them quickly until they are tolerably dry, then stir in a little pale vinegar or lemon-juice, and serve them as hot as possible, with fried sippets round them.

DRESSED CUCUMBERS.

Pare and slice them very thin, strew a little fine salt over them, and when they have stood a few minutes, drain off the water, by raising one side of the dish, and letting it flow to the other; pour it away, strew more salt, and a moderate seasoning of pepper on them, add two or three tablespoonsful of the purest salad-oil, and turn the cucumbers well, that the whole may receive a portion of it; then pour over them from one to three dessertspoonsful of chili vinegar, and a little common, should it be needed; turn them into a clean dish and serve them.

323Obs.—If very young, cucumbers are usually dressed without being pared, but the tough rind of full-grown ones being extremely indigestible, should be avoided. The vegetable, though apt to disagree with persons of delicate habit, when sauced in the common English mode, with salt, pepper, and vinegar only, may often be eaten by them with impunity when dressed with plenty of oil. It is difficult to obtain this perfectly fresh and pure here; and hence, perhaps, arises in part the prejudice which, amongst us, is so often found to exist against the use of this most wholesome condiment.

MANDRANG, OR MANDRAM.

(West Indian Receipt.)

Chop together very small, two moderate-sized cucumbers, with half the quantity of mild onion; add the juice of a lemon, a saltspoonful or more of salt, a third as much of cayenne, and one or two glasses of Madeira, or of any other dry white wine. This preparation is to be served with any kind of roast meat.

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR MANDRAM.

Take three or four cucumbers, so young as not to require paring; score the ends well, that when they are sliced they may fall into small bits; add plenty of young onions, cut fine, the juice of half a lemon, a glass of sherry or Madeira, and a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar.

STEWED CUCUMBERS. (English mode.)

Pare, and split into quarters, four or five full-grown but still young cucumbers; take out the seeds and cut each part in two; sprinkle them with white pepper or cayenne; flour and fry them lightly in a little butter, lift them from the pan, drain them on a sieve, then lay them into as much good brown gravy as will nearly cover them, and stew them gently from twenty-five to thirty minutes, or until they are quite tender. Should the gravy require to be thickened or flavoured, dish the cucumbers and keep them hot while a little flour and butter, or any other of the usual ingredients, is stirred into it. Some persons like a small portion of lemon-juice, or of chili vinegar added to the sauce; cucumber vinegar might be substituted for these with very good effect, as the vegetable loses much of its fine and peculiar flavour when cooked.

25 to 30 minutes.

Obs.—The cucumbers may be left in entire lengths, thrown into well-salted boiling water, and simmered for ten minutes, then thoroughly drained upon the back of a sieve, and afterwards stewed very quickly until tender in some highly-flavoured brown gravy.

FRIED CUCUMBERS TO SERVE IN COMMON HASHES AND MINCES.

If very young they need not be pared, but otherwise, take off the rind, slice, and dredge them lightly with pepper and flour, but put no salt at first; throw them into very hot butter or clarified dripping, or they will not brown; when they are nearly done sprinkle some salt amongst them, and as soon as they are quite tender, lift them out with a slice, drain them well, and place them lightly over the hash or mince. A small portion of onion may be fried with them when it is liked.

TO BOIL CAULIFLOWERS.

Trim off the outside leaves, and cut the stems quite close to the cauliflowers; let them lie for an hour in plenty of cold water with a handful of salt in it, to draw out any insects that may be amongst them; then wash them very thoroughly, and examine them well, to be assured that none remain in any part of them; throw them into a large pan of boiling water salted as for asparagus, and quite cleared from scum; for this, if not removed, will adhere to the cauliflowers and spoil their appearance. When the stalks are tender lift them out, dish them neatly, and send good melted butter to table with them.

20 to 30 minutes.

CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

Take all the green leaves from two or three fine white cauliflowers, and cut the stalks off very closely, so that they will stand upright in the dish in which they are served; boil them tolerably tender, but not sufficiently so as to hazard their breaking; drain them well, and dish them, so as to give the whole the appearance of one cauliflower; pour a little good white sauce equally over the tops, and on this strew grated Parmesan cheese, drop over it a little clarified butter, add another layer of cheese, and cover the whole with the finest bread-crumbs; moisten these with more clarified butter, and brown them with a salamander, or set the dish into the oven, to give them colour; pour white sauce round the cauliflowers, and send them very hot to table.

BROCCOLI.

This is boiled, and served in the same manner as cauliflowers when the heads are large; the stems of the branching broccoli are peeled, and the vegetable, tied in bunches, is dressed and served, like asparagus, upon a toast.

10 to 20 minutes.

VEGETABLE MARROW.

It is customary to gather this when not larger than a turkey’s egg, but we should say that the vegetable is not then in its perfection. The flesh is whiter and of better flavour when the gourd is about six inches long; at least we have found it so with the kinds which have fallen under our observation. It may either be boiled in the skin, then pared, halved, and served upon a toast; or quartered, freed from the seed, and left until cold, then dipped into egg and fine crumbs of bread, and fried; or it may be cut into dice, and re-heated in a little good white sauce; or stewed tender in butter, and served in well-thickened veal gravy, flavoured with a little lemon-juice. It may likewise be mashed by the receipt which we have given for turnips, and in that form will be found excellent. The French make a fanciful dish of the marrows thus: they boil them tender in water, and halve them lengthwise as is usual, they then slice a small bit off each to make them stand evenly in the dish, and after having hollowed the insides, so as to leave a mere shell, about half an inch thick, they fill them with a thick rich mince of white meat, and pour white sauce round them; or they heap fried bread-crumbs over the tops, place the dish in the oven for a few minutes, and serve them without sauce.

Size of turkey’s egg, 10 to 15 minutes; moderate-sized, 20 to 30; large, 3/4 to 1 hour.

ROAST TOMATAS.

(To serve with roast leg, loin, or shoulder of mutton.)

Select them nearly of the same size, take off the stalks, and roast them gently in a Dutch oven, or if more convenient, place them at the edge of the dripping-pan, taking care that no fat from the joint shall fall upon them, and keeping them turned that they may be equally done. From ten to fourteen minutes will roast them.

STEWED TOMATAS.

Arrange them in a single layer, and pour to them as much gravy as will reach to half their height; stew them very softly until the under sides are done, then turn, and finish stewing them. Thicken the gravy with a little arrow-root and cream, or with flour and butter, and serve it round them.

FORCED TOMATAS. (English Receipt.)

Cut the stems quite close, slice off the tops of eight fine tomatas, and scoop out the insides; press the pulp through a sieve, and mix with it one ounce of fine crumbs of bread, one of butter broken very small, some pepper or cayenne, and salt. Fill the tomatas with the mixture, and bake them for ten minutes in a moderate oven; serve them with brown gravy in the dish. A few small mushrooms stewed tender in a little butter, then minced and added to the tomata pulp, will very much improve this receipt.

Bake 10 minutes.

PURÉE OF TOMATAS.

Divide a dozen fine ripe tomatas, squeeze out the seeds, and take off the stalks; put them with one small mild onion (or more, if liked), and about half a pint of very good gravy, into a well-tinned stewpan or saucepan, and simmer them for nearly or quite an hour; a couple of bay-leaves, some cayenne, and as much salt as the dish may require, should be added when they begin to boil. Press them through a sieve, heat them again, and stir to them a quarter of a pint of good cream, previously mixed and boiled for five minutes with a teaspoonful of flour. This purée is to be served with calf’s head, veal cutlets, boiled knuckle of veal, calf’s brains, or beef palates. For pork, beef, geese, and other brown meats, the tomatas should be reduced to a proper consistence in rich and highly-flavoured brown gravy, or Spanish sauce.

TO BOIL GREEN INDIAN CORN.

When still quite green and tender, the ears of maize or Indian corn are very good boiled and served as a vegetable; and as they will not ripen well in this country unless the summer be unusually warm and favourable, it is an advantageous mode of turning them to account. Strip away the sheath which encloses them, and take off the long silken fibres from the tops; put the corn into boiling water salted as for asparagus, and boil it for about half an hour. Drain it well, dish it on a toast, and send it to table with melted butter. The Americans, who have it served commonly at their tables, use it when more fully grown than we have recommended, and boil it without removing the inner leaves of the sheath; but it is sweeter and more delicate before it has reached so advanced a state. The grains may be freed from the corn-stalks with a knife, and tossed up with a slice of fresh butter and some pepper and salt, or served simply like green peas. Other modes of dressing the young maize will readily suggest themselves to an intelligent cook, and our space will not permit us to enumerate them.

25 to 30 minutes.

POTTED MUSHROOMS.

Prepare either small flaps or buttons with great nicety, without wetting them, and wipe the former very dry, after the application of the salt and flannel. Stew them quite tender, with the same proportion of butter as the mushrooms au beurre, but increase a little the quantity of spice; when they are done turn them into a large dish, spread them over one end of it, and raise it two or three inches that they may be well drained from the butter. As soon as they are quite cold, press them very closely into small potting-pans; pour lukewarm clarified butter thickly over them, and store them in a cool dry place. If intended for present use, merely turn them down upon a clean shelf; but for longer keeping cover the tops first with very dry paper, and then with melted mutton-suet. We have ourselves had the mushrooms, after being simply spread upon a dish while hot, remain perfectly good in that state for seven or eight weeks: they were prepared late in the season, and the weather was consequently cool during the interval.

TRUFFLES AND THEIR USES.

The truffle, or underground mushroom, as it has sometimes been called, is held in almost extravagant estimation by epicures,[109] and enters largely into what may be termed first-class cookery, both in England and abroad; though it is much less generally known and used here than in France, Germany, and other parts of the Continent, where it is far more abundant, and of very superior quality.

109.  It has been named by a celebrated gastronomer of past days, “Le diamant de la cuisine.”

As it is in constant demand for luxuriously-served tables, and has hitherto, we believe, baffled all attempts to increase it by cultivation, it bears usually a high price in the English market,[110] and is seldom to be had cheap in any; but although too costly for common consumption, where the expenditure is regulated by rational economy, it may at times be made to supply, at a reasonable expense, some excellent store-preparations for the breakfast and luncheon-table; as a small portion will impart its peculiar flavour to them.

110.  Varying from eight to sixteen shillings the pound at the best foreign warehouses. The truffles which are pared, bottled and steamed like fruit, are more expensive still; but they can be kept after the season of the fresh ones is entirely past. English truffles—which are found in Hampshire (in the New Forest)—and in some few other of our counties, are very good, though seldom or ever equal in quality to those of France, Germany, and of different parts of Italy. The most esteemed of the French ones are from Perigord.

The blackest truffles are considered the best. All are in their perfection during the latter part of November, December, and January; though they may be procured usually from October to March; yet as they are peculiarly subject to decay—or, properly speaking, become really putrid—from exposure to the air, it is an advantage to have them as early in their season as may be. In sumptuous households the very finest foreign truffles are often served as a vegetable in the second course.

TO PREPARE TRUFFLES FOR USE.

First soak them for an hour or two in fresh water, to loosen the earth which adheres to them; then rinse them well from it, and with a hard brush scrub them until not a particle of the mould in which they have been embedded can be seen upon them. This part of the operation should be especially attended to, because the parings are as useful as the truffles themselves. It is often needful to leave them longer in the water after it has been changed; and even to soak them sometimes in lukewarm water also: when they are perfectly cleaned, wipe them gently with a soft cloth, or fold them in to dry, should they be wanted for any preparation to which moisture would be injurious.

TRUFFLES À LA SERVIETTE.

Select the finest truffles for this dish, be particular in smelling them, and reject any that have a musty smell. Wash and brush them well with cold water only, change it several times, and when they are perfectly clean line a stewpan with slices of bacon; put in the truffles with a bunch of parsley, green onions, and thyme, two or three bay-leaves, half a dozen cloves, and a little sweet basil; pour in sufficient rich veal gravy to cover them, with the addition of from half a pint to half a bottle of champagne; boil them very softly for an hour, then draw them aside and let them cool in the gravy. Heat them afresh in it when they are wanted for table; lift them out and drain them in a very clean cloth, and dish them neatly in a fine and beautifully white napkin, which will contrast as strongly as possible with the dark hue of the truffles.

TRUFFLES À L’ITALIENNE.

Wash perfectly clean, wipe, and pare some truffles extremely thin; slice them about the size of a penny; put them into a sauté-pan (or small frying-pan), with a slice of fresh butter, some minced parsley and eschalot, salt and pepper; put them on the fire and stir them, that they may fry equally; when they are done, which will be in about ten minutes, drain off part of the butter, and throw in a bit of fresh butter, a small ladleful of Spanish sauce, the juice of one lemon, and a little cayenne pepper. This is a dish of high relish.

TO BOIL SPROUTS, CABBAGES, SAVOYS, LETTUCES, OR ENDIVE.

All green vegetables should be thrown into abundance of fast boiling water ready salted and skimmed, with the addition of the small quantity of carbonate of soda which we have recommended, in a previous page of this chapter; the pan should be left uncovered, and every precaution taken to prevent the smoke from reaching its contents. Endive, sprouts, and spring greens, will only require copious washing before they are boiled; but savoys, large lettuces, and close-leaved cabbages should be thrown into salt and water for half an hour or more before they are dressed, with the tops downwards to draw out the insects. The stems of these last should be cut off, the decayed leaves stripped away, and the vegetable halved or quartered, or split deeply across the stalk-end, and divided entirely before it is dished.

Very young greens, 15 to 20 minutes; lettuces, 20 to 30 minutes, large savoys, or cabbages, 1 to 1-1/2 hour, or more.

Obs.—When the stalk of any kind of cabbage is tender it is ready to serve. Turnip-greens should be well washed in several waters, and boiled in a very large quantity to deprive them of their bitterness.

STEWED CABBAGE.

Cut out the stalk entirely, and slice a fine firm cabbage or two in very thin strips; throw them after they have been well washed and drained, into a large pan of boiling water ready salted and skimmed, and when they are tender, which will be in from ten to fifteen minutes, pour them into a sieve or strainer, press the water thoroughly from them, and chop them slightly. Put into a very clean saucepan about a couple of ounces of butter, and when it is dissolved add the cabbage with sufficient pepper and salt to season it, and stir it over a clear fire until it appears tolerably dry; then shake lightly in a tablespoonful of flour, turn the whole well, and add by slow degrees a cup of thick cream: veal gravy or good white sauce may be substituted for this, when preferred to it.

TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE.

(ENTREMETS – second course)

When no scoop for the purpose is at hand, cut some small finely-grained turnips into quarters, and pare them into balls, or into the shape of plums or pears of equal size; arrange them evenly in a broad stewpan or saucepan, and cover them nearly with good veal broth, throw in a little salt, and a morsel of sugar, and boil them rather quickly until they are quite tender, but preserve them unbroken; lift them out, draining them well from the broth; dish, and pour over them some thick white sauce. As an economy, a cup of cream, and a teaspoonful of arrow-root, may be added to the broth in which the turnips have stewed, to make the sauce; and when it boils, a small slice of butter may be stirred and well worked into it, should it not be sufficiently rich without.

TURNIPS STEWED IN BUTTER.

(GOOD.)

This is an excellent way of dressing the vegetable when it is mild and finely grained; but its flavour otherwise is too strong to be agreeable. After they have been washed, wiped quite dry, and pared, slice the turnips nearly half an inch thick, and divide them into dice,. Just dissolve an ounce of butter for each half-pound of the turnips, put them in as flat as they can be, and stew them very gently indeed, from three quarters of an hour to a full hour. Add a seasoning of salt and white pepper when they are half done. When thus prepared, they may be dished in the centre of fried or nicely broiled mutton cutlets, or served by themselves.

For a small dish: turnips, 1-1/2 lb.; butter, 3 oz.; seasoning of white pepper; salt, 1/2 teaspoonful, or more: 3/4 to 1 hour. Large dish: turnips, 2 lbs.; butter 4 oz.

TURNIPS IN GRAVY.

To a pound of turnips sliced and cut into dice, pour a quarter of a pint of boiling veal gravy, add a small lump of sugar, some salt and cayenne, or white pepper, and boil them quickly from fifty to sixty minutes. Serve them very hot.

CARROTS. (ENTRÉE.) (The Windsor Receipt.)

Select some good carrots of equal size, and cut the upper parts into even lengths of about two inches and a half, then trim one end of each into a point, so as to give the carrot the form of a sugar loaf. When all are ready, throw them into plenty of ready-salted boiling water, and boil them three quarters of an hour. Lift them out, and drain them well, then arrange them upright, and all on a level in a broad stewpan or saucepan, and pour in good hot beef-broth or veal gravy to half their height; add as much salt as may be needed, and a small teaspoonful of sugar, and boil them briskly for half an hour, or longer, should they require it. Place them again upright in dishing them, and keep them hot while a little good brown gravy is thickened to pour over them, and mixed with a large teaspoonful of parsley and a little lemon-juice; or sauce them with common béchamel, or white sauce, with or without the addition of parsley.

Thick part of carrots cut in cones: boiled 3/4 hour. With gravy or broth, little salt and sugar: 1/2 hour, or more. Sauce: thickened gravy, béchamel made without meat, or common white sauce.

Obs.—The carrots dressed thus are exceedingly good without any sauce beyond the small quantity of liquid which will remain in the stewpan with them, or with a few spoonsful more of gravy added to this, and thickened with butter and a little flour.

SWEET CARROTS.

(ENTREMETS.)

Boil quite tender some fine highly-flavoured carrots, press the water from them, and rub them through the back of a fine hair-sieve; put them into a clean saucepan or stewpan, and dry them thoroughly over a gentle fire; then add a slice of fresh butter, and when this is dissolved and well mixed with them, strew in a dessertspoonful or more of powdered sugar, and a little salt; next, stir in by degrees some good cream, and when this is quite absorbed, and the carrots again appear dry, dish and serve them quickly with small sippets à la Reine, placed round them.

Carrots, 3 lbs., boiled quite tender: stirred over a gentle fire 5 to 10 minutes. Butter, 2 oz.; salt, 1/2 teaspoonful; pounded sugar, 1 dessertspoonful; cream, 1/2 pint, stewed gently together until quite dry.

Obs.—For excellent mashed carrots omit the sugar, add a good seasoning of salt and white pepper, and half a pint of rich brown gravy; or for a plain dinner rather less than this of milk.

MASHED (OR BUTTERED) CARROTS. (A Dutch Receipt.)

Prepare some finely flavoured carrots as above, and dry them over a gentle fire like mashed turnips; then for a dish of moderate size mix well with them from two to three ounces of good butter, cut into small bits, keeping them well stirred. Add a seasoning of salt and cayenne, and serve them very hot, garnished or not at pleasure with small sippets (croutons) of fried bread.

CARROTS IN THEIR OWN JUICE. (A simple but excellent Receipt.)

By the following mode of dressing carrots, whether young or old, their full flavour and all the nutriment they contain are entirely preserved; and they are at the same time rendered so palatable by it that they furnish at once an admirable dish to eat without meat, as well as with it. Wash the roots very clean, and scrape or lightly pare them, cutting out any discoloured parts. Have ready boiling and salted, as much water as will cover them; slice them rather thick, throw them into it, and should there be more than sufficient to just floatthem (and barely that), pour it away. Boil them gently until they are tolerably tender, and then very quickly, to evaporate the water, of which only a spoonful or so should be left in the saucepan. Dust a seasoning of pepper on them, throw in a morsel of butter rolled in flour, and turn and toss them gently until their juice is thickened by them and adheres to the roots. Send them immediately to table. They are excellent without any addition but the pepper; though they may be in many ways improved. A dessertspoonful of minced parsley may be strewed over them when the butter is added, and a little thick cream mixed with a small proportion of flour to prevent its curdling, may be strewed amongst them, or a spoonful or two of good gravy.

TO BOIL PARSNEPS.

These are dressed in precisely the same manner as carrots, but require much less boiling. According to their quality and the time of year, they will take from twenty minutes to nearly an hour. Every speck or blemish should be cut from them after they are scraped, and the water in which they are boiled should be well skimmed. They are a favourite accompaniment to salt fish and boiled pork, and may be served either mashed or plain.

20 to 25 minutes.

FRIED PARSNEPS.

Boil them until they are about half done, lift them out, and let them cool; slice them rather thickly, sprinkle them with fine salt and white pepper, and fry them a pale brown in good butter. Serve them with roast meat, or dish them under it.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

Wash the artichokes, pare them quickly, and throw them as they are done into a saucepan of cold water, or of equal parts of milk and water; and when they are about half boiled add a little salt to them. Take them up the instant they are perfectly tender: this will be in from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, so much do they vary in size and as to the time necessary to dress them. If allowed to remain in the water after they are done, they become black and flavourless. Melted butter should always be sent to table with them.

15 to 25 minutes.

TO FRY JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

(ENTREMETS.)

Boil them from eight to twelve minutes; lift them out, drain them on a sieve, and let them cool; dip them into beaten eggs, and cover them with fine bread-crumbs. Fry them a light brown, drain, pile them in a hot dish, and serve them quickly.

MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

Boil them tender, press the water well from them, and then proceed exactly as for mashed turnips, taking care to dry the artichokes well, both before and after the milk or cream is added to them; they will be excellent if good white sauce be substituted for either of these.

HARICOTS BLANCS.

The haricot blanc is the seed of a particular kind of French bean, of which we find some difficulty in ascertaining the English name, for though we have tried several which resembled it in appearance, we have found their flavour, after they were dressed, very different, and far from agreeable. The large white Dutch runner, is, we believe, the proper variety for cooking; at least we have obtained a small quantity under that name, which approached much more nearly than any others we had tried to those which we had eaten abroad.

The haricots, when fresh may be thrown into plenty of boiling water, with some salt and a small bit of butter; if dry, they must be previously soaked for an hour or two, put into cold water, brought to boil gently, and simmered until they are tender, for if boiled fast the skins will burst before the beans are done. Drain them thoroughly from the water when they are ready, and lay them into a clean saucepan over two or three ounces of fresh butter, a small dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, and sufficient salt and pepper to season the whole; then gently shake or toss the beans until they are quite hot and equally covered with the sauce; add the strained juice of half a lemon, and serve them quickly.

The vegetable thus dressed, is excellent; and it affords a convenient resource in the season when the supply of other kinds is scantiest. In some countries the dried beans are placed in water, over-night, upon a stove, and by a very gentle degree of warmth are sufficiently softened by the following day to be served as follows:—they are drained from the water, spread on a clean cloth and wiped quite dry, then lightly floured and fried in oil or butter, with a seasoning of pepper and salt, lifted into a hot dish, and served under roast beef, or mutton.

TO BOIL BEET ROOT.

Wash the roots delicately clean, but neither scrape nor cut them, for should even the small fibres be taken off before they are cooked, their beautiful colour would be much injured. Throw them into boiling water, and, according to their size, which varies greatly, as they are sometimes of enormous growth, boil them from one hour and a half to two and a half, or longer if requisite. Pare and serve them whole, or cut into thick slices and neatly dished in a close circle: send melted butter to table with them. Cold red beet root is often intermingled with other vegetables for winter salads; and it makes a pickle of remarkably brilliant hue. A common mode of serving it at the present day is in the last course of a dinner with the cheese: it is merely pared and sliced after having been baked or boiled tender.

1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, or longer.

TO BAKE BEET ROOT.

Beet root if slowly and carefully baked until it is tender quite through, is very rich and sweet in flavour, although less bright in colour than when it is boiled: it is also, we believe, remarkably nutritious and wholesome. Wash and wipe it very dry, but neither cut nor break any part of it; then lay it into a coarse earthen dish, and bake it in a gentle oven for four or five hours: it will sometimes require even a longer time than this. Pare it quickly if it be served hot; but leave it to cool first, when it is to be sent to table cold.

In slow oven from 4 to 6 hours.

STEWED BEET ROOT.

Bake or boil it tolerably tender, and let it remain until it is cold, then pare and cut it into slices; heat and stew it for a short time in some good pale veal gravy (or in strong veal broth for ordinary occasions), thicken this with a teaspoonful of arrow-root, and half a cupful or more of good cream, and stir in, as it is taken from the fire, from a tea to a tablespoonful of chili vinegar. The beet root may be served likewise in thick white sauce, to which, just before it is dished, the mild eschalots may be added.

TO STEW RED CABBAGE.

(Flemish Receipt.)

Strip the outer leaves from a fine and fresh red cabbage; wash it well, and cut it into the thinnest possible slices, beginning at the top; put it into a thick saucepan in which two or three ounces of good butter have been just dissolved; add some pepper and salt, and stew it very slowly indeed for three or four hours in its own juice, keeping it often stirred, and well pressed down. When it is perfectly tender add a tablespoonful of vinegar; mix the whole up thoroughly, heap the cabbage in a hot dish, and serve broiled sausages round it; or omit these last, and substitute lemon-juice, cayenne pepper, and a half-cupful of good gravy.

The stalk of the cabbage should be split in quarters and taken entirely out in the first instance.

3 to 4 hours.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

These delicate little sprouts, or miniature cabbages, which at their fullest growth scarcely exceed a large walnut in size, should be quite freshly gathered. Free them from all discoloured leaves, cut the stems even, and wash the sprouts thoroughly. Throw them into a pan of water properly salted, and boil them quickly from eight to ten minutes; drain them well, and serve them upon a rather thick round of toasted bread buttered on both sides. Send good melted butter to table with them. This is the Belgian mode of dressing this excellent vegetable, which is served in France with the sauce poured over it, or it is tossed in a stewpan with a slice of butter and some pepper and salt: a spoonful or two of veal gravy (and sometimes a little lemon-juice) is added when these are perfectly mixed.

8 to 10 minutes.

SALSIFY.

We are surprised that a vegetable so excellent as this should be so little cared for in England. Delicately fried in batter—which is a common mode of serving it abroad—it forms a delicious second course dish: it is also good when plain-boiled, drained, and served in gravy, or even with melted butter. Wash the roots, scrape gently off the dark outside skin, and throw them into cold water as they are done, to prevent their turning black; cut them into lengths of three or four inches, and when all are ready put them into plenty of boiling water with a little salt, a small bit of butter, and a couple of spoonsful of white vinegar or the juice of a lemon: they will be done in from three quarters of an hour to an hour. Try them with a fork, and when perfectly tender, drain, and serve them with white sauce, rich brown gravy, or melted butter.

3/4 to 1 hour.

FRIED SALSIFY. (ENTREMETS.)

Boil the salsify tender, as directed above, drain, and then press it lightly in a soft cloth. Make some French batter (see Chapter V.), throw the bits of salsify into it, take them out separately, and fry them a light brown, drain them well from the fat, sprinkle a little fine salt over them after they are dished, and serve them quickly. At English tables, salsify occasionally makes its appearance fried with egg and bread-crumbs instead of batter. Scorgonera is dressed in precisely the same manner as the salsify.

BOILED CELERY.

This vegetable is extremely good dressed like sea-kale, and served on a toast with rich melted butter. Let it be freshly dug, wash it with great nicety, trim the ends, take off the coarse outer-leaves, cut the roots of equal length, tie them in bunches, and boil them in plenty of water, with the usual proportion of salt, from twenty to thirty minutes.

20 to 30 minutes.

STEWED CELERY.

Cut five or six fine roots of celery to the length of the inside of the dish in which they are to be served; free them from all the coarser leaves, and from the green tops, trim the root ends neatly, and wash the vegetable in several waters until it is as clean as possible; then, either boil it tender with a little salt, and a bit of fresh butter the size of a walnut, in just sufficient water to cover it quite, drain it well, arrange it on a very hot dish, and pour a thick béchamel, or white sauce over it; or stew it in broth or common stock, and serve it with very rich, thickened, Espagnole or brown gravy.

It has a higher flavour when partially stewed in the sauce, after being drained thoroughly from the broth. Unless very large and old, it will be done in from twenty-five to thirty minutes, but if not quite tender, longer time must be allowed for it. A cheap and expeditious method of preparing this dish is to slice the celery, to simmer it until soft in as much good broth as will only just cover it, and to add a thickening of flour and butter, or arrow-root, with some salt, pepper, and a small cupful of cream.

25 to 30 minutes, or more.

STEWED ONIONS.

Strip the outer skin from four or five fine Portugal onions, and trim the ends, but without cutting into the vegetable; arrange them in a saucepan of sufficient size to contain them all in one layer, just cover them with good beef or veal gravy, and stew them very gently indeed for a couple of hours: they should be tender quite through, but should not be allowed to fall to pieces. When large, but not mild onions are used, they should be first boiled for half an hour in plenty of water, then drained from it, and put into boiling gravy: strong, well-flavoured broth of veal or beef, is sometimes substituted for this, and with the addition of a little catsup, spice, and thickening, answers very well. The savour of this dish is heightened by flouring lightly and frying the onions of a pale brown before they are stewed.

Portugal onions, 4 or 5 (if fried, 15 to 20 minutes); broth or gravy, 1 to 1-1/2 pint: nearly or quite 2 hours.

Obs.—When the quantity of gravy is considered too much, the onions may be only half covered, and turned when the under side is tender, but longer time must then be allowed for stewing them.

STEWED CHESTNUTS.

Strip the outer rind from forty or fifty fine sound Spanish chestnuts, throw them into a large saucepan of hot water, and bring it to the point of boiling; when the second skin parts from them easily, lift them out, and throw them into plenty of cold water; peel, and wipe them dry; then put them into a stewpan or bright saucepan, with as much highly-flavoured cold beef or veal gravy as will nearly cover them, and stew them very gently from three-quarters of an hour to a full hour: they should be quite tender, but unbroken. Add salt, cayenne, and thickening if required, and serve the chestnuts in their gravy. We have found it an improvement to have them floured and lightly browned in a little good butter before they are stewed, and also to add some thin strips of fresh lemon-rind to the gravy.

Chestnuts, 40 or 50; gravy, 3/4 pint, or more: 3/4 to 1 hour.

Obs.—A couple of bay-leaves and a slice of lean ham will give an improved flavour to the sauce should it not be sufficiently rich: the ham should be laid under the chestnuts, but not served with them. When these are to be browned, or even otherwise, they may be freed readily from the second skin by shaking them with a small bit of butter in a frying-pan over a gentle fire.

Victorian Recipes from HIGH-CLASS COOKERY MADE EASY. [Economical Dishes] By Mrs. Hart. [1880]

STUFFED CUCUMBERS.

Put two cucumbers on to stew, peeled, in a pint of stock. When tender, take them up, cut them into two-inch lengths for stuffing. The remains of any cold chicken, or rabbit, or veal will do. Have it minced fine, with a drop of any sauces liked, such as Mushroom, Worcestershire, Harvey, and a little flour, parsley, pepper, and salt. Fill up the cucumbers, place them in the stew-pan to get hot, and serve the gravy over. Fill the centre with white beans for a garnish.

TOMATOES FARCIE.

Take a slice off the end of a dozen of tomatoes, and empty out the centre; mix it with one ounce of butter, two ounces of chopped mutton or chicken or veal or rabbit, pepper, salt, Worcester sauce, a few bread-crumbs. Fill the tomatoes, and stew in a half-pint good stock, and serve with a little tomato sauce round the base.

CAULIFLOWER À GRATIN.

Take a nice head of cauliflower, boil for fifteen minutes, place in a dish that will stand the fire, and pour over it a white sauce made of one spoonful of flour moistened in cold milk, and stirred into a cupful of boiling milk, pepper and salt. Pour over the cauliflower. Grate three ounces of cheese. On the top place little pieces of butter, and cook a light-brown colour.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

Put on to boil in boiling water, with a pinch of salt and soda, and boil for twenty minutes; dish, and dry on a clean towel. Return to the sauce-pan, and put half-an-ounce of butter, and shake them while heating to prevent them burning.

GREEN PEASE.

Green peas should be put on to boil in boiling water and salt. The time for boiling depends on the age; strain, and place a piece of butter, pepper and salt, with a few leaves of mint.

ASPARAGUS WITH WHITE SAUCE.

Tie into a bundle the asparagus, after washing the stalks clean. Keep all the heads the one way, put the asparagus on to cook in boiling water, and salt; boil for twenty minutes. Dish them on square pieces of buttered toast; pour a white sauce over.

VEGETABLE MARROW.

Cut the vegetable marrow into eight pieces, boil in some white stock until tender. Make a little sauce with a pat of butter, a little juice of lemon, and a grating of nutmeg. Pour over the vegetable marrow, and serve.

Victorian Vegetable Recipes from Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management [1861]

BOILED ARTICHOKES.

1080. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, a piece of soda the size of a shilling; artichokes.

Mode.—Wash the artichokes well in several waters; see that no insects remain about them, and trim away the leaves at the bottom. Cut off the stems and put them into boiling water, to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep the saucepan uncovered, and let them boil quickly until tender; ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, or by trying if the leaves can be easily removed. Take them out, let them drain for a minute or two, and serve in a napkin, or with a little white sauce poured over. A tureen of melted butter should accompany them. This vegetable, unlike any other, is considered better for being gathered two or three days; but they must be well soaked and washed previous to dressing.

Time.—20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.

Sufficient,—a dish of 5 or 6 for 4 persons.

Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.

FRIED ARTICHOKES.

(Entremets, or Small Dish, to be served with the Second Course.)

1081. INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 artichokes, salt and water: for the batter,—1/4 lb. of flour, a little salt, the yolk of 1 egg, milk.

Mode.—Trim and boil the artichokes by recipe No. 1080 [see recipe above], and rub them over with lemon-juice, to keep them white. When they are quite tender, take them up, remove the chokes, and divide the bottoms; dip each piece into batter, fry them in hot lard or dripping, and garnish the dish with crisped parsley. Serve with plain melted butter.

Time.—20 minutes to boil the artichokes, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.

Sufficient,—5 or 6 for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.

MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

1085. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1 gallon of water allow 1 oz. of salt; 15 or 16 artichokes, 1 oz. butter, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode.—Boil the artichokes as in the preceding recipe until tender; drain and press the water from them, and beat them up with a fork. When thoroughly mashed and free from lumps, put them into a saucepan with the butter and a seasoning of white pepper and salt; keep stirring over the fire until the artichokes are quite hot, and serve.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average cost, 2d. per lb.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from September to June.

BOILED ASPARAGUS.

1087. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; asparagus.

Mode.—Asparagus should be dressed as soon as possible after it is cut, although it may be kept for a day or two by putting the stalks into cold water; yet, to be good, like every other vegetable, it cannot be cooked too fresh. Scrape the white part of the stems, beginning from the head, and throw them into cold water; then tie them into bundles of about 20 each, keeping the heads all one way, and cut the stalks evenly, that they may all be the same length; put them into boiling water, with salt in the above proportion; keep them boiling quickly until tender, with the saucepan uncovered. When the asparagus is done, dish it upon toast, which should be dipped in the water it was cooked in, and leave the white ends outwards each war, with the points meeting in the middle. Serve with a tureen of melted butter.

Time.—15 to 18 minutes after the water boils.

Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6d. the 100 heads.

Sufficient.—Allow about 50 heads for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable.—May be had, forced, from January but cheapest in May, June, and July.

ASPARAGUS PEAS.

(Entremets, or to be served as a Side-dish with the Second Course.)

1088. INGREDIENTS.—100 heads of asparagus, 2 oz. of butter, a small bunch of parsley, 2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt.

Mode.—Carefully scrape the asparagus, cut it into pieces of an equal size, avoiding that which is in the least hard or tough, and throw them into cold water. Then boil the asparagus in salt and water until three-parts done; take it out, drain, and place it on a cloth to dry the moisture away from it. Put it into a stewpan with the butter, parsley, and onions, and shake over a brisk fire for 10 minutes. Dredge in a little flour, add the sugar, and moisten with boiling water. When boiled a short time and reduced, take out the parsley and onions, thicken with the yolks of 2 eggs beaten with the cream; add a seasoning of salt, and, when the whole is on the point of simmering, serve. Make the sauce sufficiently thick to adhere to the vegetable.

Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d. a pint.

Seasonable in May, June, and July.

ASPARAGUS PUDDING.

(A delicious Dish, to be served with the Second Course.)

1089. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of asparagus peas, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful of very finely minced ham, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, milk.

Mode.—Cut up the nice green tender parts of asparagus, about the size of peas; put them into a basin with the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the flour, ham, butter, pepper, and salt. Mix all these ingredients well together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of thick batter; put it into a pint buttered mould, tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, place it in boiling water, and let it boil for 2 hours; turn it out of the mould on to a hot dish, and pour plain melted butter round, but not over, the pudding. Green peas pudding may be made in exactly the same manner, substituting peas for the asparagus.

Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d. per pint.

Seasonable in May, June, and July.

BOILED FRENCH BEANS.

1090. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda.

Mode.—This vegetable should always be eaten young, as, when allowed to grow too long, it tastes stringy and tough when cooked. Cut off the heads and tails, and a thin strip on each side of the beans, to remove the strings. Then divide each bean into 4 or 6 pieces, according to size, cutting them lengthways in a slanting direction, and, as they are cut, put them into cold water, with a small quantity of salt dissolved in it. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in the above proportion; put in the beans, keep them boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, and be careful that they do not get smoked. When tender, which may be ascertained by their sinking to the bottom of the saucepan, take them up, throw them into a colander; and when drained, dish and serve with plain melted butter. When very young, beans are sometimes served whole: when they are thus dressed, their colour and flavour are much better preserved; but the more general way of dressing them is to cut them into thin strips.

Time.—Very young beans, 10 to 12 minutes; moderate size, 15 to 20 minutes, after the water boils.

Average cost, in full season, 1s. 4d. a peck; but, when forced, very expensive.

Sufficient.—Allow 1/2 peck for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from the middle of July to the end of September; but may be had, forced, from February to the beginning of June.

BOILED BROAD OR WINDSOR BEANS.

1092. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; beans.

Mode.—This is a favourite vegetable with many persons, but to be nice, should be young and freshly gathered. After shelling the beans, put them into boiling water, salted in the above proportion, and let them boil rapidly until tender. Drain them well in a colander; dish, and serve with them separately a tureen of parsley and butter. Boiled bacon should always accompany this vegetable, but the beans should be cooked separately. It is usually served with the beans laid round, and the parsley and butter in a tureen. Beans also make an excellent garnish to a ham, and when used for this purpose, if very old, should have their skins removed.

Time.—Very young beans, 15 minutes; when of a moderate size, 20 to 25 minutes, or longer.

Average cost, unshelled, 6d. per peck.

Sufficient.—Allow one peck for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable in July and August.

BOILED BEETROOT.

1094. INGREDIENTS,—Beetroot; boiling water.

Mode.—When large, young, and juicy, this vegetable makes a very excellent addition to winter salads, and may easily be converted into an economical and quickly-made pickle. Beetroot is more frequently served cold than hot: when the latter mode is preferred, melted butter should be sent to table with it. It may also be stewed with button onions, or boiled and served with roasted onions. Wash the beets thoroughly; but do not prick or break the skin before they are cooked, or they would lose their beautiful colour in boiling. Put them into boiling water, and let them boil until tender, keeping them well covered. If to be served hot, remove the peel quickly, cut the beetroot into thick slices, and send to table melted butter. For salads, pickle, &c., let the root cool, then peel, and cut it into slices.

Time.—Small beetroot, 1-1/2 to 2 hours; large, 2-1/2 to 3 hours.

Average cost, in full season, 2d. each.

Seasonable.—May be had at any time.

BOILED BROCOLI.

1095. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; brocoli.

Mode.—Strip off the dead outside leaves, and the inside ones cut off level with the flower; cut off the stalk close at the bottom, and put the brocoli into cold salt and water, with the heads downwards. When they have remained in this for about 3/4 hour, and they are perfectly free from insects, put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above proportion, and keep them boiling quickly over a brisk fire, with the saucepan uncovered. Take them up with a slice the moment they are done; drain them well, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, a little of which should be poured over the brocoli. If left in the water after it is done, it will break, its colour will be spoiled, and its crispness gone.

Time.—Small brocoli, 10 to 15 minutes; large one, 20 to 25 minutes.

Average cost, 2d. each.

Sufficient,—2 for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from October to March; plentiful in February and March.

THE KOHL-RABI, OR TURNIP-CABBAGE.—This variety presents a singular development, inasmuch as the stem swells out like a large turnip on the surface of the ground, the leaves shooting from it all round, and the top being surmounted by a cluster of leaves issuing from it. Although not generally grown as a garden vegetable, if used when young and tender, it is wholesome, nutritious, and very palatable.

BOILED BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

1096. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; a very small piece of soda.

Mode.—Clean the sprouts from insects, nicely wash them, and pick off any dead or discoloured leaves from the outsides; put them into a saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in the above proportion; keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly over a brisk fire until tender; drain, dish, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, or with a maître d’hôtel sauce poured over them. Another mode of serving is, when they are dished, to stir in about 1-1/2 oz. of butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt. They must, however, be sent to table very quickly, as, being so very small, this vegetable soon cools. Where the cook is very expeditious, this vegetable, when cooked, may be arranged on the dish in the form of a pineapple, and, so served, has a very pretty appearance.

Time.—From 9 to 12 minutes after the water boils.

Average cost, 1s. 4d. per peck.

Sufficient.—Allow between 40 and 50 for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from November to March.

SAVOYS AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS.—When the Green Kale, or Borecole, has been advanced a step further in the path of improvement, it assumes the headed or hearting character, with blistered leaves; it is then known by the name of Savoys and Brussels Sprouts. Another of its headed forms, but with smooth glaucous leaves, is the cultivated Cabbage of our gardens (the Borecole oleracea capitula of science); and all its varieties of green, red, dwarf, tall, early, late, round, conical, flat, and all the forms into which it is possible to put it.

TO BOIL YOUNG GREENS OR SPROUTS.

1097. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; a very small piece of soda.

Mode.—Pick away all the dead leaves, and wash the greens well in cold water; drain them in a colander, and put them into fast-boiling water, with salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep them boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, until tender; and the moment they are done, take them up, or their colour will be spoiled; when well drained, serve. The great art in cooking greens properly, and to have them a good colour, is to put them into plenty of fast-boiling water, to let them boil very quickly, and to take them up the moment they become tender.

Time.—Brocoli sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes; young greens, 10 to 12 minutes; sprouts, 12 minutes, after the water boils.

Seasonable.—Sprouts of various kinds may be had all the year.

GREEN KALE, OR BORECOLE.—When Colewort, or Wild Cabbage, is brought into a state of cultivation, its character becomes greatly improved, although it still retains the loose open leaves, and in this form it is called Green Kale, or Borecole. The scientific name is Borecole oleracea acephala, and of it there are many varieties, both as regards the form and colour of the leaves, as well as the height which the plants attain. We may observe, that among them, are included the Thousand-headed, and the Cow or Tree Cabbage.

BOILED CABBAGE.

1098. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; a very small piece of soda. Mode.—Pick off all the dead outside leaves, cut off as much of the stalk as possible, and cut the cabbages across twice, at the stalk end; if they should be very large, quarter them. Wash them well in cold water, place them in a colander, and drain; then put them into plenty of fast-boiling water, to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportions. Stir them down once or twice in the water, keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly until tender. The instant they are done, take them up into a colander, place a plate over them, let them thoroughly drain, dish, and serve.

Time.—Large cabbages, or savoys, 1/3 to 3/4 hour, young summer cabbage, 10 to 12 minutes, after the water boils.

Average cost, 2d. each in full season.

Sufficient,—2 large ones for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable.—Cabbages and sprouts of various kinds at any time.

THE CABBAGE TRIBE: THEIR ORIGIN.—Of all the tribes of the Cruciferae this is by far the most important. Its scientific name is Brassiceae, and it contains a collection of plants which, both in themselves and their products, occupy a prominent position in agriculture, commerce, and domestic economy. On the cliffs of Dover, and in many places on the coasts of Dorsetshire, Cornwall, and Yorkshire, there grows a wild plant, with variously-indented, much-waved, and loose spreading leaves, of a sea-green colour, and large yellow flowers. In spring, the leaves of this plant are collected by the inhabitants, who, after boiling them in two waters, to remove the saltness, use them as a vegetable along with their meat. This is the Brassica oleracea of science, the Wild Cabbage, or Colewort, from which have originated all the varieties of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Greens, and Brocoli.

STEWED RED CABBAGE.

1099. INGREDIENTS.—1 red cabbage, a small slice of ham, 1/2 oz. of fresh butter, 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 gill of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar.

Mode.—Cut the cabbage into very thin slices, put it into a stewpan, with the ham cut in dice, the butter, 1/2 pint of stock, and the vinegar; cover the pan closely, and let it stew for 1 hour. When it is very tender, add the remainder of the stock, a seasoning of salt and pepper, and the pounded sugar; mix all well together, stir over the fire until nearly all the liquor is dried away, and serve. Fried sausages are usually sent to table with this dish: they should be laid round and on the cabbage, as a garnish.

Time.—Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost, 4d. each.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from September to January.

THE WILD CABBAGE, OR COLEWORT.—This plant, as it is found on the sea-cliffs of England, presents us with the origin of the cabbage tribe in its simplest and normal form. In this state it is the true Collet, or Colewort, although the name is now applied to any young cabbage which has a loose and open heart.

BOILED CARROTS.

1100. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; carrots.

Mode.—Cut off the green tops, wash and scrape the carrots, and should there be any black specks, remove them. If very large, cut them in halves, divide them lengthwise into four pieces, and put them into boiling water, salted in the above proportion; let them boil until tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork into them: dish, and serve very hot. This vegetable is an indispensable accompaniment to boiled beef. When thus served, it is usually boiled with the beef; a few carrots are placed round the dish as a garnish, and the remainder sent to table in a vegetable-dish. Young carrots do not require nearly so much boiling, nor should they be divided: these make a nice addition to stewed veal, &c.

Time.—Large carrots, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours; young ones, about 1/2 hour.

Average cost, 6d. to 8d, per bunch of 18.

Sufficient,—4 large carrots for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable.—Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.

ORIGIN OF THE CARROT.—In its wild state, this vegetable is found plentifully in Britain, both in cultivated lands and by waysides, and is known by the name of birds-nest, from its umbels of fruit becoming incurved from a hollow cup, like a birds-nest. In this state its root is whitish, slender, and hard, with an acrid, disagreeable taste, and a strong aromatic smell, and was formerly used as an aperient. When cultivated, it is reddish, thick, fleshy, with a pleasant odour, and a peculiar, sweet, mucilaginous taste. The carrot is said by naturalists not to contain much nourishing matter, and, generally speaking, is somewhat difficult of digestion.

BOILED CAULIFLOWERS.

1104. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode.—Choose cauliflowers that are close and white; trim off the decayed outside leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom. Open the flower a little in places to remove the insects, which generally are found about the stalk, and let the cauliflowers lie in salt and water for an hour previous to dressing them, with their heads downwards: this will effectually draw out all the vermin. Then put them into fast-boiling water, with the addition of salt in the above proportion, and let them boil briskly over a good fire, keeping the saucepan uncovered. The water should be well skimmed; and, when the cauliflowers are tender, take them up with a slice; let them drain, and, if large enough, place them upright in the dish. Serve with plain melted butter, a little of which may be poured over the flower.

Time.—Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes, large one, 20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.

Average cost, for large cauliflowers, 6d. each.

Sufficient.—Allow 1 large cauliflower for 3 persons.

Seasonable from the beginning of June to the end of September.

CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)

1106. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather more than 1/2 pint of white sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.

Mode.—Cleanse and boil the cauliflowers, and drain them and dish them with the flowers standing upright. Have ready the above proportion of white sauce; pour sufficient of it over the cauliflowers just to cover the top; sprinkle over this some rasped Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs, and drop on these the butter, which should be melted, but not oiled. Brown with a salamander, or before the fire, and pour round, but not over, the flowers the remainder of the sauce, with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated Parmesan cheese.

Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour. Average cost, for large cauliflowers, 6d. each.

Sufficient,—3 small cauliflowers for 1 dish.

Seasonable from the beginning of June to the end of September.

CAULIFLOWER AND BROCOLI.—These are only forms of the wild Cabbage in its cultivated state. They are both well known; but we may observe, that the purple and white Brocoli are only varieties of the Cauliflower.

CELERY.

1107. With a good heart, and nicely blanched, this vegetable is generally eaten raw, and is usually served with the cheese. Let the roots be washed free from dirt, all the decayed and outside leaves being cut off, preserving as much of the stalk as possible, and all specks or blemishes being carefully removed. Should the celery be large, divide it lengthwise into quarters, and place it, root downwards, in a celery-glass, which should be rather more than half filled with water. The top leaves may be curled, by shredding them in narrow strips with the point of a clean skewer, at a distance of about 4 inches from the top.

Average cost, 2d. per head.

Sufficient.—Allow 2 heads for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from October to April.

Note.—This vegetable is exceedingly useful for flavouring soups, sauces, &c., and makes a very nice addition to winter salad.

STEWED CELERY A LA CREME.

1108. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1/3 pint of cream.

Mode.—Wash the celery thoroughly; trim, and boil it in salt and water until tender. Put the cream and pounded mace into a stewpan; shake it over the fire until the cream thickens, dish the celery, pour over the sauce, and serve.

Time.—Large heads of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to 20 minutes.

Average cost. 2d. per head.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from October to April.

ALEXANDERS.—This plant is the Smyrnium olustratum of science, and is used in this country in the same way in which celery is. It is a native of Great Britain, and is found in its wild state near the seacoast. It received its name from the Italian “herba Alexandrina,” and is supposed to have been originally brought from Alexandria; but, be this as it may, its cultivation is now almost entirely abandoned.

STEWED CELERY (with White Sauce).

I.

1109. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery, 1 oz. of butter; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 pint of white sauce.

Mode.—Have ready sufficient boiling water just to cover the celery, with salt and butter in the above proportion. Wash the celery well; cut off the decayed outside leaves, trim away the green tops, and shape the root into a point; put it into the boiling water; let it boil rapidly until tender; then take it out, drain well, place it upon a dish, and pour over about 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by either of the recipes No. 537 or 538. It may also be plainly boiled as above, placed on toast, and melted butter poured over, the same as asparagus is dished.

Time.—Large heads of celery, 25 minutes, small ones, 15 to 20 minutes, after the water boils.

Average cost, 2d. per head.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from October to April.

ORIGIN OF CELERY.—In the marshes and ditches of this country there is to be found a very common plant, known by the name of Smallage. This is the wild form of celery; but, by being subjected to cultivation, it loses its acrid nature, and becomes mild and sweet. In its natural state, it has a peculiar rank, coarse taste and smell, and its root was reckoned by the ancients as one of the “five greater aperient roots.” There is a variety of this in which the root becomes turnip-shaped and large. It is called Celeriae, and is extensively used by the Germans, and preferred by them to celery. In a raw state, this plant does not suit weak stomachs; cooked, it is less difficult of digestion, although a large quantity should not he taken.

II.

1110. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of white stock or weak broth, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, thickening of butter and flour, 1 blade of pounded mace, a very little grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste.

Mode.—Wash the celery, strip off the outer leaves, and cut it into lengths of about 4 inches. Put these into a saucepan, with the broth, and stew till tender, which will be in from 20 to 25 minutes; then add the remaining ingredients, simmer altogether for 4 or 5 minutes, pour into a dish, and serve. It may be garnished with sippets of toasted bread.

Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour. Average cost, 2d. per head.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from October to April.

Note.—By cutting the celery into smaller pieces, by stewing it a little longer, and, when done, by pressing it through a sieve, the above stew may be converted into a puree of celery.

FRIED CUCUMBERS.

1113. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 cucumbers, pepper and salt to taste, flour, oil or butter.

Mode.—Pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equal thickness, commencing to slice from the thick, and not the stalk end of the cucumber. Wipe the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them with flour, and put them into a pan of boiling oil or butter; Keep turning them about until brown; lift them out of the pan, let them drain, and serve, piled lightly in a dish. These will be found a great improvement to rump-steak: they should be placed on a dish with the steak on the top.

Time.—5 minutes. Average cost, when cheapest, 4d. each.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable.—Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in full season in July and August.

STEWED CUCUMBERS.

1114. INGREDIENTS.—3 large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather more than 1/2 pint of good brown gravy.

Mode.—Cut the cucumbers lengthwise the size of the dish they are intended to be served in; empty them of the seeds, and put them into boiling water with a little salt, and let them simmer for 5 minutes; then take them out, place them in another stewpan, with the gravy, and let them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender. Should these be bitter, add a lump of sugar; carefully dish them, skim the sauce, pour over the cucumbers, and serve.

Time.—Altogether, 20 minutes.

Average cost, when cheapest, 1d. each.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable in June, July, and August; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March.

STEWED CUCUMBERS WITH ONIONS.

1115. INGREDIENTS.—6 cucumbers, 3 moderate-sized onions, not quite 1 pint of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, a very little grated nutmeg.

Mode.—Pare and slice the cucumbers, take out the seeds, and cut the onions into thin slices; put these both into a stewpan, with the stock, and let them boil for 1/4 hour or longer, should the cucumbers be very large. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs; stir these into the sauce; add the cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg; bring it to the point of boiling, and serve. Do not allow the sauce to boil, or it will curdle. This is a favourite dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump-steaks, &c.

Time.—Altogether, 20 minutes.

Average cost, when cheapest, 4d. each.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March.

STEWED ENDIVE.

1117. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of endive, salt and water, 1 pint of broth, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a small lump of sugar.

Mode.—Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove the green part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightly salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes; then take it out, drain it till there is no water remaining, and chop it very fine. Put it into a stewpan with the broth; add a little salt and a lump of sugar, and boil until the endive is perfectly tender. When done, which may be ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add a thickening of butter and flour and the lemon-juice: let the sauce boil up, and serve.

Time.—10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.

Average cost, 1d. per head.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from November to March.

BAKED MUSHROOMS.

(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)

1124. INGREDIENTS.—16 to 20 mushroom-flaps, butter, pepper to taste.

Mode.—For this mode of cooking, the mushroom flaps are better than the buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off a portion of the stalk, peel the top, and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece of flannel and a little fine salt. Put them into a tin baking-dish, with a very small piece of butter placed on each mushroom; sprinkle over a little pepper, and let them bake for about 20 minutes, or longer should the mushrooms be very large. Have ready a very hot dish, pile the mushrooms high in the centre, pour the gravy round, and send them to table quickly, with very hotplates.

Time.—20 minutes; large mushrooms, 1/2 hour.

Average cost, 1d. each for large mushroom-flaps.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated mushrooms may be had at any time.

STEWED MUSHROOMS.

1127. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint mushroom-buttons, 3 oz. of fresh butter, white pepper and salt to taste, lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of flour, cream or milk, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.

Mode.—Cut off the ends of the stalks, and pare neatly a pint of mushroom-buttons; put them into a basin of water, with a little lemon-juice, as they are done. When all are prepared, take them from the water with the hands, to avoid the sediment, and put them into a stewpan with the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the juice of 1/2 lemon; cover the pan closely, and let the mushrooms stew gently from 20 to 25 minutes; then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour, add gradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk, to make the sauce of a proper consistency, and put in the grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms are not perfectly tender, stew them for 5 minutes longer, remove every particle of butter which may be floating on the top, and serve.

Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, from 9d. to 2s. per pint.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October.

STEWED MUSHROOMS IN GRAVY.

1128. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of mushroom-buttons, 1 pint of brown gravy, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste.

Mode.—Make a pint of brown gravy; cut nearly all the stalks away from the mushrooms and peel the tops; put them into a stewpan, with the gravy, and simmer them gently from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Add the nutmeg and a seasoning of cayenne and salt, and serve very hot.

Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

Average cost, 9d. to 2s. per pint.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October.

BAKED SPANISH ONIONS.

1129. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt, and water.

Mode.—Put the onions, with their skins on, into a saucepan of boiling water slightly salted, and let them boil quickly for an hour. Then take them out, wipe them thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece of paper separately, and bake them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or longer, should the onions be very large. They may be served in their skins, and eaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt; or they may be peeled, and a good brown gravy poured over them.

Time.—1 hour to boil, 2 hours to bake.

Average cost, medium-sized, 2d. each.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from September to January.

THE GENUS ALLIUM.—The Onion, like the Leek, Garlic, and Shalot, belongs to the genus Allium, which is a numerous species of vegetable; and every one of them possesses, more or less, a volatile and acrid penetrating principle, pricking the thin transparent membrane of the eyelids; and all are very similar in their properties. In the whole of them the bulb is the most active part, and any one of them may supply the place of the other; for they are all irritant, excitant, and vesicant. With many, the onion is a very great favourite, and is considered an extremely nutritive vegetable. The Spanish kind is frequently taken for supper, it being simply boiled, and then seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter. Some dredge on a little flour, but many prefer it without this.

STEWED SPANISH ONIONS.

1131—INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 pint of good broth or gravy.

Mode.—Peel the onions, taking care not to cut away too much of the tops or tails, or they would then fall to pieces; put them into a stewpan capable of holding them at the bottom without piling them one on the top of another; add the broth or gravy, and simmer very gently until the onions are perfectly tender. Dish them, pour the gravy round, and serve. Instead of using broth, Spanish onions may be stewed with a large piece of butter: they must be done very gradually over a slow fire or hot-plate, and will produce plenty of gravy.

Time.—To stew in gravy, 2 hours, or longer if very large.

Average cost.—medium-sized, 2d. each.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from September to January.

Note.—Stewed Spanish onions are a favourite accompaniment to roast shoulder of mutton.

ORIGIN OF THE ONION.—This vegetable is thought to have originally come from India, through Egypt, where it became an object of worship. Thence it was transmitted to Greece, thence to Italy, and ultimately it was distributed throughout Europe, in almost every part of which it has, from time immemorial, been cultivated. In warm climates it is found to be less acrid and much sweeter than in colder latitudes; and in Spain it is not at all unusual to see a peasant munching an onion, as an Englishman would an apple. Spanish onions, which are imported to this country during the winter months, are, when properly roasted, perfectly sweet, and equal to many preserves.

BOILED GREEN PEAS.

1133. INGREDIENTS.—Green peas; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 small teaspoonful of moist sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode.—This delicious vegetable, to be eaten in perfection, should be young, and not gathered or shelled long before it is dressed. Shell the peas, wash them well in cold water, and drain them; then put them into a saucepan with plenty of fast-boiling water, to which salt and moist sugar have been added in the above proportion; let them boil quickly over a brisk fire, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and be careful that the smoke does not draw in. When tender, pour them into a colander; put them into a hot vegetable-dish, and quite in the centre of the peas place a piece of butter, the size of a walnut. Many cooks boil a small bunch of mint with the peas, or garnish them with it, by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. Should the peas be very old, and difficult to boil a good colour, a very tiny piece of soda may be thrown in the water previous to putting them in; but this must be very sparingly used, as it causes the peas, when boiled, to have a smashed and broken appearance. With young peas, there is not the slightest occasion to use it.

Time.—Young peas, 10 to 15 minutes; the large sorts, such as marrowfats, &c., 18 to 24 minutes; old peas, 1/2 hour.

Average cost, when cheapest, 6d. per peck; when first in season, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per peck.

Sufficient.—Allow 1 peck of unshelled peas for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from June to the end of August.

ORIGIN OF THE PEA.—All the varieties of garden peas which are cultivated have originated from the Pisum sativum, a native of the south of Europe; and field peas are varieties of Pisum arvense. The Everlasting Pea is Lathyrus latifolius, an old favourite in flower-gardens. It is said to yield an abundance of honey to bees, which are remarkably fond of it. In this country the pea has been grown from time immemorial; but its culture seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of herbage, plants, and roots.

STEWED GREEN PEAS.

1135. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of peas, 1 Lettuce, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

Mode.—Shell the peas, and cut the onion and lettuce into slices; put these into a stewpan, with the butter, pepper, and salt, but with no more water than that which hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew the whole very gently for rather more than 1 hour; then stir to it a well-beaten egg, and about 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. When the peas, &c., are nicely thickened, serve but, after the egg is added, do not allow them to boil.

Time.—1-1/4 hour. Average cost, 6d. per peck.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from June to the end of August.

THE SWEET-PEA AND THE HEATH OR WOOD-PEA.—The well-known sweet-pea forms a fine covering to a trellis, or lattice-work in a flower-garden. Its gay and fragrant flowers, with its rambling habit, render it peculiarly adapted for such a purpose. The wood-pea, or heath-pea, is found in the heaths of Scotland, and the Highlanders of that country are extremely partial to them, and dry and chew them to give a greater relish to their whiskey. They also regard them as good against chest complaints, and say that by the use of them they are enabled to withstand hunger and thirst for a long time. The peas have a sweet taste, somewhat like the root of liquorice, and, when boiled, have an agreeable flavour, and are nutritive. In times of scarcity they have served as an article of food. When well boiled, a fork will pass through them; and, slightly dried, they are roasted, and in Holland and Flanders served up like chestnuts.

TO DRESS SALSIFY.

1149. INGREDIENTS.—Salsify; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.

Mode.—Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them only of their outside peel; cut them into pieces about 4 inches long, and, as they are peeled, throw them into water with which has been mixed a little lemon-juice, to prevent their discolouring. Put them into boiling water, with salt, butter, and lemon-juice in the above proportion, and let them boil rapidly until tender; try them with a fork; and, when it penetrates easily, they are done. Drain the salsify, and serve with a good white sauce or French melted butter.

Time.—30 to 50 minutes. Seasonable in winter.

Note.—This vegetable may be also boiled, sliced, and fried in batter of a nice brown. When crisp and a good colour, they should be served with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little fine salt sprinkled over the salsify.

SALSIFY.—This esculent is, for the sake of its roots, cultivated in gardens. It belongs to the Composite class of flowers, which is the most extensive family in the vegetable kingdom. This family is not only one of the most natural and most uniform in structure, but there is also a great similarity existing in the properties of the plants of which it is composed. Generally speaking, all composite flowers are tonic or stimulant in their medical virtues.

BOILED SEA-KALE.

1150. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode.—Well wash the kale, cut away any wormeaten pieces, and tie it into small bunches; put it into boiling water, salted in the above proportion, and let it boil quickly until tender. Take it out, drain, untie the bunches, and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce, a little of which may be poured over the kale. Sea-kale may also be parboiled and stewed in good brown gravy: it will then take about 1/2 hour altogether.

Time.—15 minutes; when liked very thoroughly done, allow an extra 5 minutes.

Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.

Sufficient.—Allow 12 heads for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from February to June.

SEA-KALE.—This plant belongs to the Asparagus tribe, and grows on seashores, especially in the West of England, and in the neighbourhood of Dublin. Although it is now in very general use, it did not come into repute till 1794. It is easily cultivated, and is esteemed as one of the most valuable esculents indigenous to Britain. As a vegetable, it is stimulating to the appetite, easily digestible, and nutritious. It is so light that the most delicate organizations may readily eat it. The flowers form a favourite resort for bees, as their petals contain a great amount of saccharine matter.

TO BOIL SPINACH (English Mode).

1155. INGREDIENTS.—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 oz. of butter, pepper to taste.

Mode.—Pick the spinach carefully, and see that no stalks or weeds are left amongst it; wash it in several waters, and, to prevent it being gritty, act in the following manner:—Have ready two large pans or tubs filled with water; put the spinach into one of these, and thoroughly wash it; then, with the hands, take out the spinach, and put it into the other tub of water (by this means all the grit will be left at the bottom of the tub); wash it again, and, should it not be perfectly free from dirt, repeat the process. Put it into a very large saucepan, with about 1/2 pint of water, just sufficient to keep the spinach from burning, and the above proportion of salt. Press it down frequently with a wooden spoon, that it may be done equally; and when it has boiled for rather more than 10 minutes, or until it is perfectly tender, drain it in a colander, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it finely. Put the spinach into a clean stewpan, with the butter and a seasoning of pepper; stir the whole over the fire until quite hot; then put it on a hot dish, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread.

Time.—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach, 5 minutes to warm with the butter.

Average cost for the above quantity, 8d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable.—Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from November to March.

Note.—Grated nutmeg, pounded mace, or lemon-juice may also be added to enrich the flavour; and poached eggs are also frequently served with spinach: they should be placed on the top of it, and it should be garnished with sippets of toasted bread.—See coloured plate U.

VARIETIES OF SPINACH.—These comprise the Strawberry spinach, which, under that name, was wont to be grown in our flower-gardens; the Good King Harry, the Garden Oracle, the Prickly, and the Round, are the varieties commonly used. The Oracle is a hardy sort, much esteemed in France, and is a native of Tartary, introduced in 1548. The common spinach has its leaves round, and is softer and more succulent than any of the Brassica tribe.

SPINACH.—This is a Persian plant. It has been cultivated in our gardens about two hundred years, and is the most wholesome of vegetables. It is not very nutritious, but is very easily digested. It is very light and laxative. Wonderful properties have been ascribed to spinach. It is an excellent vegetable, and very beneficial to health. Plainly dressed, it is a resource for the poor; prepared luxuriantly, it is a choice dish for the rich.

BAKED TOMATOES.

(Excellent.)

1158. INGREDIENTS.—8 or 10 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, bread crumbs.

Mode.—Take off the stalks from the tomatoes; cut them into thick slices, and put them into a deep baking-dish; add a plentiful seasoning of pepper and salt, and butter in the above proportion; cover the whole with bread crumbs; drop over these a little clarified butter; bake in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, and serve very hot. This vegetable, dressed as above, is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to all kinds of roast meat. The tomatoes, instead of being cut in slices, may be baked whole; but they will take rather longer time to cook.

Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in August, September, and October; but may be had, forced, much earlier.

TOMATOES.—The Tomato is a native of tropical countries, but is now cultivated considerably both in France and England. Its skin is of a brilliant red, and its flavour, which is somewhat sour, has become of immense importance in the culinary art. It is used both fresh and preserved. When eaten fresh, it is served as an entremets; but its principal use is in sauce and gravy; its flavour stimulates the appetite, and is almost universally approved. The Tomato is a wholesome fruit, and digests easily. From July to September, they gather the tomatoes green in France, not breaking them away from the stalk; they are then hung, head downwards, in a dry and not too cold place; and there they ripen.

STEWED TOMATOES.

I.

1159. INGREDIENTS.—8 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

Mode.—Slice the tomatoes into a lined saucepan; season them with pepper and salt, and place small pieces of butter on them. Cover the lid down closely, and stew from 20 to 25 minutes, or until the tomatoes are perfectly tender; add the vinegar, stir two or three times, and serve with any kind of roast meat, with which they will be found a delicious accompaniment.

Time.—20 to 25 minutes.

Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from August to October; but may be had, forced, much earlier.

ANALYSIS OF THE TOMATO.—The fruit of the love-apple is the only part used as an esculent, and it has been found to contain a particular acid, a volatile oil, a brown, very fragrant extracto-resinous matter, a vegeto-mineral matter, muco-saccharine, some salts, and, in all probability, an alkaloid. The whole plant has a disagreeable odour, and its juice, subjected to the action of the fire, emits a vapour so powerful as to cause vertigo and vomiting.

II.

1160. INGREDIENTS.—8 tomatoes, about 1/2 pint of good gravy, thickening of butter and flour, cayenne and salt to taste.

Mode.—Take out the stalks of the tomatoes; put them into a wide stewpan, pour over them the above proportion of good brown gravy, and stew gently until they are tender, occasionally carefully turning them, that they may be equally done. Thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour worked together on a plate; let it just boil up after the thickening is added, and serve. If it be at hand, these should be served on a silver or plated vegetable-dish.

Time.—20 to 25 minutes, very gentle stewing.

Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in August, September, and October; but maybe had, forced, much earlier.

THE TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.—This vegetable is a native of Mexico and South America, but is also found in the East Indies, where it is supposed to have been introduced by the Spaniards. In this country it is much more cultivated than it formerly was; and the more the community becomes acquainted with the many agreeable forms in which the fruit can be prepared, the more widely will its cultivation be extended. For ketchup, soups, and sauces, it is equally applicable, and the unripe fruit makes one of the best pickles.

BOILED TURNIPS.

1165. INGREDIENTS.—Turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode.—Pare the turnips, and, should they be very large, divide them into quarters; but, unless this is the case, let them be cooked whole. Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Try them with a fork, and, when done, take them up in a colander; let them thoroughly drain, and serve. Boiled turnips are usually sent to table with boiled mutton, but are infinitely nicer when mashed than served whole: unless nice and young, they are scarcely worth the trouble of dressing plainly as above.

Time.—Old turnips, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hour; young ones, about 18 to 20 minutes.

Average cost, 4d. per bunch.

Sufficient.—Allow a bunch of 12 turnips for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable.—May be had all the year; but in spring only useful for flavouring gravies, &c.

THE TURNIP.—This vegetable is the Brassica Rapa of science, and grows wild in England, but cannot be brought exactly to resemble what it becomes in a cultivated state. It is said to have been originally introduced from Hanover, and forms an excellent culinary vegetable, much used all over Europe, where it is either eaten alone or mashed and cooked in soups and stews. They do not thrive in a hot climate; for in India they, and many more of our garden vegetables, lose their flavour and become comparatively tasteless. The Swede is the largest variety, but it is too coarse for the table.

MASHED TURNIPS.

1166. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 large turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 2 oz. of butter, cayenne or white pepper to taste.

Mode.—Pare the turnips, quarter them, and put them into boiling water, salted in the above proportion; boil them until tender; then drain them in a colander, and squeeze them as dry as possible by pressing them with the back of a large plate. When quite free from water, rub the turnips with a wooden spoon through the colander, and put them into a very clean saucepan; add the butter, white pepper, or cayenne, and, if necessary, a little salt. Keep stirring them over the fire until the butter is well mixed with them, and the turnips are thoroughly hot; dish, and serve. A little cream or milk added after the turnips are pressed through the colander, is an improvement to both the colour and flavour of this vegetable.

Time.—From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the turnips; 10 minutes to warm them through.

Average cost, 4d. per bunch.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable.—May be had all the year; but in spring only good for flavouring gravies.

TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE.

(An Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish.)

1168. INGREDIENTS.—7 or 8 turnips, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of white sauce,

Mode.—Peel and cut the turnips in the shape of pears or marbles; boil them in salt and water, to which has been added a little butter, until tender; then take them out, drain, arrange them on a dish, and pour over the white sauce made by recipe No. 538 or 539, and to which has been added a small lump of sugar. In winter, when other vegetables are scarce, this will be found a very good and pretty-looking dish: when approved, a little mustard may be added to the sauce.

Time.—About 3/4 hour to boil the turnips.

Average cost, 4d. per bunch.

Sufficient for 1 side-dish. Seasonable in winter.

THE FRENCH NAVET.—This is a variety of the turnip; but, instead of being globular, has more the shape of the carrot. Its flavour being excellent, it is much esteemed on the Continent for soups and made dishes. Two or three of them will impart as much flavour as a dozen of the common turnips will. Accordingly, when stewed in gravy, they are greatly relished. This flavour resides in the rind, which is not cut off, but scraped. This variety was once grown in England, but now it is rarely found in our gardens, though highly deserving of a place there. It is of a yellowish-white colour, and is sometimes imported to the London market.

BOILED TURNIP GREENS.

1169. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; turnip-greens.

Mode.—Wash the greens well in two or three waters, and pick off all the decayed and dead leaves; tie them in small bunches, and put them into plenty of boiling water, salted in the above proportion. Keep them boiling quickly, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and when tender, pour them into a colander; let them drain, arrange them in a vegetable-dish, remove the string that the greens were tied with, and serve.

Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 4d. for a dish for 3 persons.

Seasonable in March, April, and May.

CABBAGE, TURNIP-TOPS, AND GREENS.—All the cabbage tribe, which comprises coleworts, brocoli, cauliflower, sprouts, and turnip-tops, in order to be delicate, should be dressed young, when they have a rapid growth; but, if they have stood the summer, in order to be tender, they should be allowed to have a touch of frost. The cabbage contains much vegetable albumen, and several parts sulphur and nitrate of potass. Cabbage is heavy, and a long time digesting, which has led to a belief that it is very nourishing. It is only fit food for robust and active persons; the sedentary or delicate should carefully avoid it. Cabbage may be prepared in a variety of ways: it serves as a garniture to several recherché dishes,—partridge and cabbage for example. Bacon and cabbage is a very favourite dish; but only a good stomach can digest it.

FRIED VEGETABLE MARROW.

1171. INGREDIENTS.—3 medium-sized vegetable marrows, egg and bread crumbs, hot lard.

Mode.—Peel, and boil the marrows until tender in salt and water; then drain them and cut them in quarters, and take out the seeds. When thoroughly drained, brush the marrows over with egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs; have ready some hot lard, fry the marrow in this, and, when of a nice brown, dish; sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, and serve.

Time.—About 1/2 hour to boil the marrow, 7 minutes to fry it.

Average cost, in full season, 1s. per dozen.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable in July, August, and September.

THE VEGETABLE MARROW.—This vegetable is now extensively used, and belongs to the Cucurbits. It is the C. ovifera of science, and, like the melon, gourd, cucumber, and squash, is widely diffused in the tropical or warmer regions of the globe. Of the nature of this family we have already spoken when treating of the cucumber.

VEGETABLE MARROWS IN WHITE SAUCE.

1173. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 moderate-sized marrows, 1/2 pint of white sauce.

Mode.—Pare the marrows; cut them in halves, and shape each half at the top in a point, leaving the bottom end flat for it to stand upright in the dish. Boil the marrows in salt and water until tender; take them up very carefully, and arrange them on a hot dish. Have ready 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by recipe No. 539; pour this over the marrows, and serve.

Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes to boil the marrows.

Average cost, in full season, 1s. per dozen.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in July, August, and September.

Victorian Vegetable Recipes from A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes BY CHARLES ELMÉ FRANCATELLI, [1852]

Economical Vegetable Pottage.

In France, and also in many parts of Europe, the poorer classes but very seldom taste meat in any form; the chief part of their scanty food consists of bread, vegetables, and more especially of their soup, which is mostly, if not entirely, made of vegetables, or, as is customary on the southern coasts of France, Italy,and Spain, more generally of fish.

The most common as well as the easiest method for making a good mess of cheap and nutritious soup is the following:—If you are five or six in family, put a three-gallon pot on the fire rather more than half full of water, add four ounces of butter, pepper and salt, and small sprigs of winter savory, thyme, and parsley; and when this has boiled, throw in any portion or quantity, as may best suit your convenience, of such of the following vegetables as your garden can afford:—Any kind of cabbages cleaned and split, carrots, turnips, parsnips, broad beans, French beans, peas, broccoli, red cabbages, vegetable marrow, young potatoes, a few lettuce, some chervil, and a few sprigs of mint. Allow all this to simmer by the side of the hob for about two hours, and then, after taking up the more considerable portion of the whole vegetables on to a dish, eat one half, or as much as you may require, of the soup with bread in it, and make up your dinner with the whole vegetables and more bread. The remainder will serve for the next day. Let me persuade you, my friends, to try and persevere in adopting this very desirable kind of food, when in your power, for your ordinary fare. I, of course, intend this remark more particularly for the consideration of such of my readers as are or may be located in the country, and who may have a little garden of their own.

Vegetable Porridge.

Scrape and peel the following vegetables:—six carrots, six turnips, six onions, three heads of celery, and three parsnips; slice up all these very thinly, and put them into a two-gallon pot, with four ounces of butter, a handful of parsley, ditto of chervil, and a good sprig of thyme, and fill up with water or pot liquor, if you happen to have any; season with pepper and salt, and put the whole to boil very gently on the fire for two hours; at the end of this time the vegetables will be done to a pulp, and the whole must be rubbed through a colander with a wooden spoon, and afterwards put back into the pot and stirred over the fire, to make it hot for dinner.

Pumpkin Porridge.

I am aware that pumpkins are not generally grown in this country as an article of food for the poorer classes, and more is the pity, for they require but little trouble to rear, and yield an abundance of nutritious and cooling food, at a small cost; the chief reason for the short supply is, I imagine, the want of knowledge for turning the pumpkin to good account as an article of food. I am now about to supply easy instruction to convey that knowledge to whomsoever may stand in need of it. Peel and slice up as much pumpkin as will produce about eight ounces for each person, and put this into a boiling pot, with two ounces of butter, and a quart of water; set the whole to boil very gently on the fire, until the pumpkin is reduced to a pulp, and then add half-a-pint of buttermilk, or skim milk, to every person who is to partake of the porridge. You then stir the porridge over the fire for about fifteen minutes longer, taking care that it does not boil over; season with salt and a little nutmeg, and eat it with toasted bread for breakfast, or any other meal.

Buttered Parsnips.

Scrape or peel the parsnips, and boil them in hot water till they are done quite tender, then drain off all the water, add a bit of butter, some chopped parsley, pepper and salt; shake them together on the fire until all is well mixed.

Buttered Swedish Turnips.

Swedish turnips are mostly given as food to cattle; true, but there is no good reason why they should not be considered as excellent food for man, for they are sweeter, and yield more substance than the ordinary turnips; let them be peeled, boiled in plenty of water, and when done, mashed with a little milk, butter, pepper, and salt.

How to Cook Spinach.

Pick it thoroughly, wash the spinach, boil it in plenty of hot water with salt in it, and when it is done, drain it free from all moisture, chop it up, put it in a saucepan with butter, pepper, and salt; stir all together on the fire for five minutes.

Baked or Roasted Onions.

Do not peel the onions, but put them in their natural state to roast on the hobs, turning them round to the fire occasionally, in order that they may be equally roasted all over and through; when they are well done, remove the outer skin, split them open, add a bit of butter, pepper and salt, and a few drops of vinegar.

How to Cook Broad Beans.

Boil the beans in hot water with a bunch of winter savory and some salt, and when done and drained, put them into a saucepan with the chopped savory, butter, a pinch of flour, pepper and salt, and toss all together for a few minutes over the fire.

How to Cook French Beans.

String the beans and boil them in hot water with salt; when done and drained, put them into a saucepan, with butter, a pinch of flour, chopped parsley, pepper and salt, and stir them gently on the fire for two or three minutes.

How to Cook Vegetable Marrow.

This is a cheap and excellent vegetable; let them be peeled, split them, and remove the seedy part; boil them in hot water with salt, and when done, eat them with a bit of butter, pepper, and salt.

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